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Everyone needs to read the the 1G idle VFAQ. 2G owners need a little more information - as provided by Dirk Koenig (edited for presentation):
"Under the hood, in the middle of the firewall,near the top of the engine compartment, there is a bundle of wires. In this bundle you should find a brown plastic plug. Open this plug (pocketing the very important cap for later installation) and follow the VFAQ instructions for grounding.
For the inside plug, while sitting in the drivers seat, grab the corner of the dash where the center console and the underside of the dashboard meet. You should now be holding the diagnostic port in your hand. Get under the dash and take a look at the plug. There is a pink wire going into it. This is the wire you should ground, how you do it is up to you. (I shoved the probe from my voltmeter into it and grounded the other end)."
There is also now a VFAQ for 2G idle adjust - see here for details.
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The part number is Mitsubishi part #MD614948, available from any Mitsubishi dealer - even the ones that don't know what it is.
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you had checked your shop manual. (You do have a shop manual, right?) Also, owners of late 1996 to 1999 DSMs need read no further - base timing cannot be adjusted on these engines - any attempt to do so will result in a 'check engine' light.
Adjustment of the base engine timing is done through adjusting the crankshaft angle sensor. There is a trick, and here it is : the ECU normally controls the engine timing, so unless you disable the ECU control, you are not seeing the base engine timing when you hook up your timing light. Instead, you are viewing the ECU-controlled timing, which may be substantially different. Adjusting the timing without first disabling the ECU control will have little effect, as the ECU will re-adjust the timing to the original value.
Fortunately, the factory provided an easy way to disable the ECU timing control - a small electrical connector in the engine bay. All you have to do is connect it to a ground to temporarily disable ECU timing. On 1Gs and 1995-1996 2Gs, the connector is located on the firewall, near the middle. (Owners of 1997+ cars please note: these engines lack the timing adjustment connector, and timing cannot be adjusted.) The basic procedure is discussed here, in a post by Christopher Paull.
After you ground this connector, hook up the timing light and check if the engine timing is +5 degrees BTDC . (For instructions on how to use a timing light, check Brad Bauer's Timing Light FAQ.) Timing adjustment is done by adjusting the crankshaft angle sensor. After the adjustment is complete, unhook the connector and re-check the timing, which (owing to the ECUs intervention) should now be around +8 degrees BTDC.
Please note that it is possible for the operator to set the timing further ahead than +5 deg BTDC. Doing so will not generally help power output, and may limit or disable the ECUs ability to safeguard your engine. See this chapter in the ECU Primer for details why.
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The reason is that the datalogger system grounds the connector in the diagnostic plug that sets the ECU to idle speed set mode, rather than timing check mode. In other words, when you ground the timing check connector with the datalogger plugged in, the ECU will go to idle speed set mode instead of timing check mode. Unplugging the logger will fix the problem and allow the ECU to enter timing check mode.
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you used the FAQ Locator. Several people have written different FAQs on this subject.
A 'chopped' aircan is simply one where a significant part of the can has been cut away - in other words, there is a big hole in it. The cut-away portion can be from 1/4 to 3/4 the size of the air can. Some people remove the airbox altogether, and use other methods to attach the air filter to the mass airflow sensor (MAS).
The theory is simple - the stock airbox, with its 'horn' or 'snorkel' air vent at the front, is a significant restriction to the free flow of air into the engine. Cutting or removing the can eliminates the restriction, allowing more air to flow into the engine. There are several FAQs on how to modify or remove the air can.
In recent years some controversy has arisen concerning this modification. The airbox snorkel may be restrictive, but it also ensures the air drawn into the engine comes from outside the engine compartment, where the air is relatively cool. Removing the snorkel allows hot underhood air to enter the engine, and since hot air is less dense than cool air, this is (theoretically) bad for engine performance. There is no doubt that hotter air is bad; according to Bill McGoldrick in his Jan 01, 1999 posting on the subject:
"A drop in charge air temperature of 20 degrees F yields a 1 motor octane drop in octane requirement. Example: a naturally aspirated engine that needed 93 octane at 90 degrees F could run on 91 octane at 50 degrees F. Turbos and intercoolers complicate things a bit but the formula still holds. By what ever means you lower inlet charge temperature, it's cold out today, big intercooler, more efficient turbo, etc., you'll effectively gain one motor octane number for every 20 degrees F you lower charge temperature."
Proponents of modified air cans point out that it is unlikely underhood temperatures will be significantly different from the outside air temperatures while the car is in motion. They argue that any performance drop will occur while the car is at rest, and will quickly disappear as soon as the car gets moving. There is some evidence that this may be true.
Still, it is possible that the performance gain obtained by removing the intake restriction is offset my a nearly equal loss of performance caused by the introduction of hotter air into the engine. Unfortunately, no one has been able to say for sure if this is the case. In the meantime, modding the air can continues to be a very popular modification on DSMs, as it 'has been done before' and nobody has ever reported decreased performance.
Tom Stangl addresses the hot-air problem in his VFAQ on how to do a ram-air intake. The ram air setup includes panels to block hot underhood air from entering the air intake. This concept is also the idea behind Chris Ayling's cold air intake mod. This type of air blocking panel/ducting is also a common practice among owners of non-turbocharged cars, who have long recognized the disadvantages of allowing hot air into their engines.
Tom also lists some brief information regarding air intake temperatures, but more information on the effect of the stock air horn can be found in the December 21, 1998 Digest in a post by Gary Schmitz (not yet in the archives). Gary found his air intake temperatures 20 degrees Farenheit hotter without the air horn, as compared to the same setup with the air horn at 60 mph. Howard Draper ran similar tests on his GVR4, and found a 60 degree difference between having the horn and not while the car was in motion. You can read about his results in the December 23, 1998 Digest.
More opinions on why modified aircans may not be so great come from Greg Campbell, Victor Del Col, Donal Lavoie (in message #29 of the Jan 3, 1999 Digest) and Mac Crossett in the Jan 01, 1999 Digest (edited):
"A couple of us did some testing this summer when the temperatures hovered around 100deg [Farenheit] for several weeks.... With the 14B turbo and an open filter (K&N FIPK), temperatures at the MAS were around 135-140degF, or 35-40degF over the ambient air. With 15lbs of boost and the stock intercooler, temperatures at the throttle body exceeded 220degF at WOT! (and maxing out our temperature sensor)
Replacing the [FIPK] with the stock airbox and a drop-in K&N filter, temperatures at the MAS were reduced to ~105degF, or only 5degF over ambient... Temperatures at the TB were reduced to around 185degF at WOT, a significant improvement. With the addition of a front-mount intercooler from a '88 Starion, TB temps dropped to around 145-155degF."
A rebuttal opinion on why modified aircars are a good thing can be heard from Warren Tsai.
Owing to the continuing debate and somewhat conflicting evidence/results, it is fair to say that the dis/advantages of modified aircans may vary from car to car. In other words, YMMV (your mileage may vary). However, the bulk of real-world testing shows that inlet air temperatures increase when using modified aircans. The debate over the pressure drop induced by the aircan will likely continue for some time.
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What is a crushed BOV? |
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Owners of highly boosted cars have discovered that the stock 1G BOV tends to begin to open too early. This causes a pressure leak in the intake system that limits boost. The valve tends to leak somewhat at lower boost levels, then opens fully when it's supposed to. This low-level leakage is the problem. The 1G BOV will usually hold pressures to about 22 psi, so this problem usually only appears on cars with upgraded turbochargers.
[2G owners have this problem, times two - the stock 2G BOV can just hold stock boost levels, and tends to start leaking at around 15 psi. 2Gers don't crush their BOV because it's plastic and won't crush. Instead, 2Gers often replace their unit with a stock 1G BOV to eliminate the leakage problem. This works until they too reach the limits of the 1G BOV.]
One DIY solution proposed to fix this problem is to crush the BOV. This means exactly what it says - stick the valve into a vise or clamp and squish it so it doesn't open as early. This is really a cheap & dirty method of increasing the spring force holding the BOV shut, and saves the operator from having to install an expensive aftermarket BOV. This techique can, however, restrict the amount of air that can pass through the BOV when it is wide open, making it a less efficient BOV, and therefore not as good as an aftermarket unit. All of this theory was explained by Todd Hayashi in his August 31/99 post on the subject. A follow-up summary post by Robert Mangus can be found here.
Although the technique is simple, individuals should use caution in applying it since various BOVs and crushing techniques are different. The essential technique is to crush the BOV so that it begins to open when 18-20 inHg of vacuum is applied to the reference port. Pristine BOVs will begin to open much earlier than this. Crushing should be done a little at a time until the BOV responds properly. Over-crushing a BOV may result in poor performance.
One opponent to this technique is Jim McKenna; he explains here how moving the BOV pressure reference solves the leakage problem. (Jim explains his original concept here.) Aaron Becker disagreed with the idea, while Warren Tsai supported it. As with most information available about this modification, this debate remains incomplete. Regardless, owners of stock turbochargers need not concern themselves, as the stock 1G BOV works just fine with stock turbos. The Last Word: Ray Peters supplied this helpful info on this subject:
"My submission concerns the theory of crushing the BOV. My studies of this concluded that crushing it only solves the open at idle problem and has nothing to do with pressure it will hold. In fact the boost pressure HOLDS the BOV closed plus the spring tension. IMO it is impossible for the valve to leak with all that force on it.
Now the other case, idle and closed throttle operation of the valve. The pressure difference between the intake manifold and the upper intercooler pipe determines when the valve is open. So at idle and when there is more than 15 Inches Hg pressure difference across the throttle plate, the valve begins to open. Crushing the valve slightly increases the spring pressure and raises this difference to just over 20 IN Hg. However the down side is it limits flow because the valve cannot travel fully anymore, and increases the pressure spike against the turbo.
I believe this was done as a workaround so one could dump to atmosphere while using a suck through air measurement device (stock airflow meter or equiv). I tested extensively on both a 1G and a 2G and found this information to be true and correct."
Basically, stop being so cheap - buy a real BOV. [Thanks, Ray!]
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What is a silencer? How do I remove the silencer? What performance gains can I expect by removing the silencer? |
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You would already know this (hint, hint) by searching the archives.
The 'silencer' is a small circle of zig-zag cardboard inside the back of the air can, behind the 1G mass airflow sensor (MAS). It is not part of the MAS, and appears to have no function other than to quiet things down a bit - in fact, 2Gs have no silencer. It is not the gold honeycomb, which is part of the MAS itself (on the front), so be sure you get the right part.
As for removal, having a shop manual handy makes everything a lot easier. Reading Robert Ritchie's Silencer Removal FAQ is almost as good, and will answer most questions. There are at least three other posts in the archives on the silencer and how to remove it.
Performance gains for removing the silencer itself should be expected to be nil; it is not that restrictive. It may provide a slight performance gain when combined with other mods, however, and the removal is simple, making it the first ever 'free mod' for DSMs. It also provides an excellent starting point for newbies who need to learn more about their cars; there is incentive (performance), economy (free) and a difficulty level ideal for non-mechanics (very easy), yet provides a great deal of basic information about the car.
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Which exhaust systems are the quietest for my [DSM]? |
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This is a very hard question to answer, except through personal experience and direct comparison between exhaust systems on either the same car or similar cars.
The most popular aftermarket muffler for the DSM trio appears to be the Dynomax Ultraflow and the Dynomax Super Turbo. Somewhere along the way, however, the DSM community fell under the (mistaken) impression that these names refer to specific mufflers. They do not - in fact, there are at least ten Ultraflow mufflers and ten Super Turbo mufflers, and YES, it does make a difference. Some mufflers are the same size all the way through, while others are have bigger connectors outside but smaller pipes inside.
Don't believe me? Take a look at A-1 Performance's Dynomax Super Turbo lineup, and their Ultraflow selection. These muffler names are NOT unique - different model numbers have different construction, tip design, connector sizes and locations even within 'similar' series.
As for noise, it varies from car to car, person to person, and the presence or absence of components such as catalytic converters and upgraded downpipes. The size of pipe does not seem to be terribly important, but often determines the muffler, since the muffler connectors have to fit the pipe.
Farzaan Kassam experienced no less than eight different exhaust systems on his Talon as he upgraded. The following table lists the noise ratings as he experienced them. All the available information is provided. Entries listed as 'systems' were prebuilt kits including muffler and pipe for the Talon. Farzaan also had a 2.5" downpipe on his car.
| Muffler | Conn. size | Model | Pipe | Size | Noise level | Comments |
| Trust | not known | not known | Trust | 2.5" | mild | Trust system |
| Ultraflow | 2.5" | not known | Dynomax | 2.25" | mild | Muffler is 2.5" throughout |
| HKS | not known | not known | HKS | 2-3/8" | mild | HKS system |
| Super Turbo | 3" | #17793 | custom | 3" | mild | |
| Super Turbo | 2.25" | not known | Dynomax | 2.25" | moderate | Super Turbo system |
| Borla | 2.25" | XR-1 | Dynomax | 2.25" | moderate | |
| Super Turbo | 3" | #17744 | custom | 3" | moderate | Muffler has 3" connectors, but is 2.5" inside. |
| Ultraflow | 3" | #17296 | custom | 3" | very loud | Muffler is 3" throughout. |
Tom Stangl has put together a comparative list of exhaust systems for DSMs, which is also listed on the FAQ Locator. Although not specifically targeted towards noise, there is some good noise information there from various experienced DSMers.
A final note: the author of these pages has a Super Turbo #17793 muffler with 3" piping. Owners of unmodified Talons, when asked, characterize the exhaust as very slightly louder than the stock systems on their own cars. Most of the other local DSMers have significantly louder systems. Highly recommended for those that want a quiet ride.
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Many people have done so successfully. While obviously not providing as much performance gain as an intake/exhaust/MBC combination, the boost controller can nevertheless increase the power output significantly. No damage to the car will result as long as the MBC is used properly. Use caution - boost-related modifications always have the potential to damage your car when misused, whether you mod the intake/exhaust or not.
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The shift knob is just screwed onto the shifter. Grab it tight and turn it counterclockwise. Use lots of force, it will begin to unscrew. Just screw the new one on, or mount it in place with lock bolts if that is required.
Many 1990-1992 owners find the 1993-1994 shift knob a nice replacement.
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There are several methods. A good starting point for 1Gs is this post by Sean Costall (look for the section beginning "WHERE TO CROSS THE !#@$%@#$^@$#% FIREWALL ON 1G TALONS"). For the more ambitious, Brian Hood has pointer out that this location can also be accessed by removing the driver's side fenderwell (after taking the wheel off, of course).
2Gers should read this one by Brent Cook. There have been comments that 2G NTs may find the steering column boot the easiest to work with, since the other opening mentioned on turbo cars doesn't seem to be present on NTs.
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Has anybody ever installed a 180 degree thermostat in a [DSM]? |
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According to Todd Day, the acknowledged expert on DSM ECUs, this is not a good idea for 1Gers in search of serious speed. See here for why (he is the "talon mgr"). He also stated there are at least 17 temperature-dependant tables in the ECU, so skewing the engine temperature might not be a good thing. However, many people have installed them with no ill effects.
It is possible that the lower temperature thermostat will operate ok in the summer but not in the winter. Some owners have commented that their datalogger temperatures stay in the 190 degree range in the summer when using a 180 degree thermostat. This is usually high enough to keep the car operating as intended. In the winter, though, the average temperature drops too low, and the car never exits "warm-up" mode. This causes the car to run rich and drop significant gas mileage.
2Gers are different. Apparantly, 2G cars have a 180 deg. thermostat from the factory, and at least one DSMer has installed a 170 degree one. However, the same caveats about lowering from the stock temperature apply equally well to 2G cars.
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Has anybody ever installed an EGR blockoff plate in a [DSM]? What sort of benefit will I see by installing an EGR blockoff in my [DSM]? |
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you had checked the FAQ Locator, since Brad Bauer has had the VFAQ for this subject available for some time now. It's also discussed in the DSM Top Ten FAQ.
Many people have installed these devices. It is now commonplace to see EGR blockoff plates sold by private individuals on the DSM Parts Trader and DSMtrader.com. However, they may not work quite the way you think.
Experience has shown that the only true benefit to installing an EGR blockoff plate is that it helps keep the engine intake clean. This is because the EGR recirculates dirty exhaust gases back to the intake. The carbon and other contaminants from the exhaust tend to coat the intake piping.
While it is true that you should theoretically get a performance increase by blocking off the EGR, in practice the change is so slight as to be negligible. Even this advantage is debateable, since some people claim the EGR only functions when the car is not boosting in any case. Also, 1994 California cars and 1995+ models are equipped with additional sensors to check that the EGR is operating correctly. Installing a blockoff plate will probably cause a 'Check Engine' light on these vehicles.
Blocking the EGR should also affect emissions performance - again, in theory. In practice, it has been argued that the EGR valve is so small on our cars as to provide little benefit for emissions.
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Has anybody ever installed fog lights on a [DSM] that didn't come with them installed? Is the wiring harness for stock fog lights installed on a [DSM] that didn't come with them installed? |
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According to Robert Arrowood, Tyler Hodgson, and Micheal Astor, 1G Talons and Lasers have the fog light wiring installed, even if they did not come with the actual lights. They also give a list of components that must be added to enable the harness to work properly. Since another unnamed poster reported the same was true for his 1994 Talon DL, this may be true for all 1G Talons.
Unfortunately, Micheal reports that Eclipse cars may not have the harness. This is only the impression of an anonymous Mitsubishi technician, however, and may or may not be true.
2G owners might also be out of luck as both Patric Sansoucy and David Parker both had to run new wiring when installing fog lights on their cars.
The Last Word: Brian Chapman states definitively that the 1990-1994 Eclipse cars do have the fog light wiring harness installed, even when the fog lights themselves were not installed. [Thanks, Brian!]
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Has anybody ever disabled the daylight running lights (DRLs) on a Canadian [DSM]? |
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Some people have. Note that this mod is usually illegal - do it at your own risk. Read this post from the archives, or read the FAQ.
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Many people have done this mod. However, there have been occasional reports from 2G owners that the 100W bulbs drew enough power from the car to damage the headlight wiring harness.
To combat this problem a few people have rewired the headlights with larger gauge wire. Curt Shambeau did so on his 1996 Spyder convertible and reported an increase in light output of 250 foot-candles on both stock and aftermarket bulbs. For the electrically inclined, this is obviously a good modification. For the non-electrically inclined, some companies now market plug-n-play wiring harnesses to upgrade your wiring. Often marketed as "SUV" or "heavy duty" lighting harnesses, they usually come complete and ready to put in.
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Has anybody ever installed "Superwhite" headlight bulbs on a [DSM]? Are they any good? |
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Lots of people have. While they obviously work, opinions on their utility are still a matter of some debate. A few owners claim they are vastly superior, while a few claim they are vastly inferior. Most people fall into a moderate camp, claiming little or no difference (good or bad).
For some more information on blue bulbs, Superwhite bulbs and HID lighting systems, please consult the bulbs page of Daniel Stern Lighting.
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Has anybody ever installed a high-intensity discharge (HID) headlight system on a [DSM]? It is worth it? |
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A few people have installed HID systems in their DSM. These systems are often installed in place of the factory fog light system, rather than as a headlight replacement system. There is at least one person that is selling HID conversion headlight systems for 1G DSMs, however. For more information, read the results of this search, visit the DSM parts trader and DSMtrader.com
Current information seems to indicate that some of the HID kits are not worth the cost. Some owners have complained that the HID kit was "worse than stock". Research carefully before buying.
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Has anybody ever installed a power antenna on a [DSM]? |
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Since many Eclipse cars came with power antennas, changing a manual-antenna Talon or Laser to a power antenna is fairly easy. According to Sam Reed, you need:
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It is possible to buy these types of rotors. Opinions on them vary, but it is unlikely that the average owner (or weekend racer) is likely to see much improvement.
The idea behind all of these altered rotors is to keep gas from becoming trapped between the pad and the rotor. The vents, slots or drills are intended to give the gas an escape route. Also, they are thought to improve rotor cooling. Both of these factors are intended to combat brake fade, where the brakes stop performing well when hot.
Unfortunately, they can all weaken the rotor and make it more susceptible to warping and cracking. Complaints of cracking are especially common on from owners of cross-drilled rotors. And most people have problems with overall brake performance rather than brake fade.
In most cases owners would be better off upgrading to Big Brakes or performance brake pads. These will certainly provide better overall braking performance.
Those who legitimately have problems with brake fade can also switch to higher-temperature Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid.
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Many people have done this quite successfully. However, you need a high-temperature paint, or you risk setting fire to your brake calipers. Folia Tec (888-486-0067) sells speciality caliper paint in a variety of colors. Other people have used engine enamel, exhaust manifold paint, Tremclad rust paint and bar-b-que paints. Some paints are air-dry, while others require baking at high temperature to cure. It is essential that the brakes be clean and masked properly before painting.
No matter what paint you get, track-driven cars can count on getting brake dust embedded in the paint, which will deteriorate the color. Street-driven cars need not worry, since the brakes rarely get hot enough to cause the brake dust to stick to the painted surface.
There is no VFAQ yet on painting brake calipers. Try reading the results of this archive search as a starting point.
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Jim Tomarchio recommends you investigate a company called Eastwood that sells restoration and touch-up products. Also, at least one DSMer has successfully obtained interior paint from a dealership.
Tristan Santoniello recommends you use acrylic paint and clear coat on the panels, using 3-5 coats of each. He also suggests you remove the panels completely before trying to paint them. Another DSMer suggests vinyl paint, again using several coats until you can get a smooth coat, and sanding lightly between each coat. The sanding helps the paint stick to the previous coat.
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Has anybody ever installed clear corners on a [DSM]? How can I make clear corners for my [DSM]? |
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Clear corners are available for both 1G and 2G DSMs. Or, at least, they are at the time of this writing.
According to Brad McIntyre, stock 90-91 DSM corner lenses are two part assemblies that can be converted to clear corners. All that is required is to soak the lenses in boiling water to soften up the glue. The lens halves can then be separated, and the amber lens removed. He also suggests painting the lamp housing chrome, and cleaning the lenses really well before putting it all back together.
Unfortunately, this mod does not work for 92-94 DSMs, or 2Gs. You can often find the clear corners you want on eBay, though.
Those installing clear corners will want to polish their headlights. The headlights will not appear faded or yellowed, until you put the brand-new clear corners next to them. To fix up this problem, wet-sand the headlights with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper, available at any Canadian Tire or other store that carries basic autobody repair materials.
The Last Word: With aftermarket replacement headlights now available at low cost on eBay, polishing the headlights is probably more trouble than it's worth. Just replace them.
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Has anybody ever installed bumper / intercooler grilles on a [DSM]? |
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Some members who have admired bumper grilles on other cars have found an inexpensive copy in a product called "Gutter Guard", sold at Home Depot. This chromed grille can look very good when installed behind the DSM bumper. Doubters need only examine this photo from Canada's own Mark Scheitzbach (the "Purple Plymouth Guy") that shows his car with the grille installed.
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Has anybody ever washed the engine on a [DSM]? How do you wash the engine on a [DSM]? What parts do I need to cover when washing the engine bay? I washed the engine on my [DSM], and now it won't run! What's wrong? Is there a fix? My [DSM] won't run! I washed the engine, and it started fine then! What's wrong? Is there a fix? |
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you had searched the archives.
Brian Hood washes his engine all the time. See his description of how to do it here.
Many people who experience problems immediately or shortly after washing their engine have damaged the crankshaft angle sensor on the car. Without this sensor, the ECU cannot tell what position the crankshaft is in, and the engine cannot run.
Usually, people who wash their engine are able to cover the electrical sensors prior to washing. If this is done, the engine will probably start up fine right after washing. However, driving the car with a wet engine will create steam, which can get inside the crankshaft angle sensor housing. Once the car is shut off, the steam condenses into water, which wrecks the sensor.
Some owners are able to 'revive' their sensors, as Brian Powell was able to do here, but most are dead. Some Digesters have investigated if they can be repaired, but so far nobody has been able to do so.
To prevent crank angle sensor damage, either wait until the engine is mostly dry before driving, or drive it for a while and then raise the hood to allow the steam to escape.
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How do I drain the gas tank on my [DSM]? |
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Racers often want to drain their pump gas and replace it with race gas beforehand. According to Steve Wells, the easiest way to do this is:
Steve credits Norm Schilling for this method. He has also connected a switch in the engine bay for turning the fuel pump
Never leave the car unattended while draining fuel.
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How do I install a child seat in my [DSM]? |
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There is little information on this, although the owner's manual for the car should help. The only child seat reported to be compatible with DSMs is made by Britax and is used by Colleen Hall. It is entirely possible that most child seats will operate just fine. For more information, read the results of this search of the Talon Digest archives.
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Has anybody ever removed the exterior decals / stickers from their [DSM]? How do I remove the exterior stickers / decals from a [DSM]? How do I remove that @#$$%@#$% dealership sticker from my beloved [DSM]? |
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The exterior decals, for all that they stay on the cars for years, are not that hard to remove. The same applies to dealership stickers, which many DSMers prefer not to have on their car.
To remove the stickers, usually all that is needed is a little heat from a hair dryer. A heat gun may also be used, but beware - the gun can develop much higher spot temperatures than the hair dryer and could damage the paint. The same can be said of using a cigarette lighter, but both methods can be used successfully with due caution.
After the sticker is hot enough, scrape it off with a plastic tool. A little WD-40 or bug n' tar remover will take off the residue.
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Has anybody ever installed "Altezza" brake lights on their [DSM]? Are "Altezza" brake lights legal for use in [my location]? Are clear brake lights legal for use in [my location]? |
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Legality varies from state to state, as well as country to country. You would need to check with local law enforcement or motor vehicles department to determine if the "Altezza" lamps are legal for use in your area.
At the very least, any aftermarket lamps installed within the USA should be Department of Transportation (DOT) certified. Many also have SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) certification. Very generally speaking, if a lamp is SAE/DOT certified, it may be legal for use in your area, but this is no guarantee.
Many "Altezza" styles are illegal. Some are missing side marker functionality that is required for OEM lamps. Also, many 'clear' tail lamps lack red reflectors and appropriate side markers, making both styles less than fully compliant with state or federal laws. Oregon has put up this page which details why "Altezza" lamps are not legal in Oregon. The same may be true for other U.S. states.
In recent years, many manufacturers have been forced to recall "Altezza" and clear tail lamps for offering lamps that violate federal or state standards. Affected makes include APC, CK Motoring, JKL Auto Accessories, OBX, Pilot Automotive and Robocar. Verficiation of these recalls is easily available from the NHTSA's recall database.
Those interested in a more thorough perusal of automotive lighting standards may find the privately-run Motor Vehicle Lighting Standards page a good place to start.
Legal questions aside, many DSMers have installed Altezza brake lights on their cars. 2G owners have several vendors selling "Altezza" style lamps. 1G brake lamp configuration does not appear to lend itself to the "Altezza" style, but a few vendors have nevertheless managed to create them for 1Gers as well.Autosupermart.com did offer them for the 1G Eclipse at one point. And if all else fails, there's always eBay.
Many Altezza users complain that the aftermarket lamps are not sealed properly, and therefore leak or collect water.
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Maintained by Sean Costall. Changes and suggestions are welcomed! If you have any information on the answers to any of these questions or wish additional questions, please mail me.
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