My engine makes a 'tick tick tick' sound. What is it? Is there a fix?
It is difficult to diagnose cars over e-mail. Most people eventually discover their problems are due to parts not being installed correctly.
The essential secret to troubleshooting is SIMPLIFY THE PROBLEM. Examine the mod(s) you have done to see if they seem related to your problem. Try removing the modification(s) and see if the problem goes away. If it does, review what you modified and the installation of the mod to ensure there are no mistakes.
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Many. Read Michael Stegbauer's Idle page, and read Todd Day's idle reply on the importance of setting your basic idle air. (This reply was included in a post by another person.) Brad Baur has an excellent idle surge VFAQ up. Also read the answer to "How do I adjust the idle on a [DSM]" in this FAQ.
If this process doesn't work, you are in the minority. Try looking for something basic, such as a loose throttle cable, first. Other sources of idle problems include fouled spark plugs, a defective or gunked-up idle speed control (ISC) motor, leaking injectors, a cracked vacuum hose, or a damaged intake manifold gasket. High idle can also be caused by a throttle cable or cruise control cables that are too tight.
Some troubleshooting tips: if your idle adjusts when your A/C compressor is on, or when all of the electrical accessories are on, the ISC is at least partially working. If your idle appears to fluctuate with temperature, suspect an air leak in a vacuum hose or at the air intake first.
If you need to check the ISC, do it when it is hot. The ISC resistance can sometimes change when it has cooled down. Thus, the ISC looks ok when checked, but misbehaves when actually operating. The same holds true for cables since they can tighten up during operation.
The Last Word: With the age of these cars, cracked hoses, hardened gaskets and broken seals are going to be very common. The throttle body shaft seals can leak air, for one example. It's the nature of an older car.
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This is likely the infamous 'hot start' problem. This question pops up every year in the springtime, when many DSMs 'suddenly' exhibit this problem.
Perhaps better named as a 'warm start' problem, this difficulty often surfaces after a car has been driven, then parked for a relatively short period of time. Upon restart, the warm engine (not fully cooled down from the previous drive) appears reluctant to crank over. When it does catch, idle is often in the 300-500 RPM range, with engine shaking, sputtering, reluctance to rev up, and sometimes stalling. Holding the accelerator down until the engine smooths out often 'solves' the problem, but sometimes the engine will not rev up at all. Often the problem will correct itself with no intervention by the driver.
Please note that an inability to crank over or failure to actually start the engine are not related to the 'hot start' problem. The problem referred to by that name relates only to bad idling after starting.
This problem appears to pop up on every year of DSM if the conditions are right. Dealerships are often completely unable to diagnose or even replicate the problem.
First diagnosed in the 1990 year, Mutsibishi developed a 'kludge box' - an add-on ECU modification - designed to fix the problem, and released TSBs #18-08-91 and 18-55-91 describing it. Other model years have no such box available, nor are there any TSBs. Since TSBs are not warranties, 1990 owners may still be out of luck. There are no reports that the kludge box was effective anyway, but at least 1990 owners have a definite 'fix' to try out.
Later 1G owners have reported a bewildering array of 'fixes' to this problem. Owners have reported hot start problems that they have attributed to many different components. Fortunately, Jim McKenna put together a nice Hot Start FAQ that should help you diagnose the problem. However, since the problem can arise from a large number of component failures, you may end up systematically going through your engine to find the problem component.
2G cars also have this problem, which is puzzling since they are largely different from their 1G counterparts. There has been speculation that there is some kind of flaw or design error in the 2G engine or ECU software that allows this problem to occur. In other cases, the ECUs were able to flag a specific error that helped the owners track down the errant sensor that was causing the difficulty. In any case, the fixes described in the Hot Start FAQ may still help out 2G owners. Other fixes include changing thermostats, switching brands of gas, and general fuel and ignition systems troubleshooting.
It is possible, however, that some (or all) of these problems are nothing more than good old-fashioned vapor lock. Gasoline blends vary according to climate, and winter fuels have more volatility than summer fuels. (In other words, winter gas vaporizes better.) In warm temperatures winter gas might vaporize more than it should. Since fuel pumps cannot pump vapor, the engine does not get the fuel it requires to idle properly and it ends up stumbling. Eventually the problem cures itself once the vapor is cleared from the fuel system. Presumably it will go away in colder temperatures or once summer fuels become available.
The Last Word: No real consistent fix has ever been discovered for this problem. Personally, I think it's a combination of two problems: an ECU coding bug, where the ECU gets "confused" because the temperature and other sensor inputs do not correspond to the actual engine condition on a "warm start", and good old-fashioned vapor lock in fluctuating weather conditions. YMMV.
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My engine makes a 'tick tick tick' sound. What is it? Is there a fix? |
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This is commonly attributed to the hydraulic lash adjusters (lifters) used in the DSM cars. Other cars have similar problems - Mazda owners, for example, refer to them as HLA problems. Other possible causes include excessive carbon buildup on the valves and piston heads.
The general consensus is that this problem is not damaging to the engine. Indeed, many owners have lived with the problem for years with no side effects. In extreme cases, it is possible that the ticking may be picked up by the ECU as knock, causing a retardation in timing that will cost some engine power. This case seems to be the exception, not the rule, since the DSM ECU only 'listens' for knock during specific time intervals.
In the past, owners have reported that their tick appeared or went away with certain oil brands, oil weights, oil filters, oil pressures or the like. These 'solutions' appear to be car-specific and do not represent a real fix, but some experimentation may help alleviate the problem. Some owners find that adding a small amount of extra oil helps to raise oil pressures and minimize the ticking, but again, it doesn't work for everyone.
Yet another solution involves realigning the lifters in the engine to promote better oil retention. Jeff Brinkerhoff recently did so with excellent results, reported in the December 2, 1998 Digest. Bryan Cobb has followed his example with similar success. Check the FAQ Locator to find the procedure.
Simply replacing the problem lifters is unquestionably the best option. The lifters have been redesigned to eliminate the tick. There is a VFAQ on this process, which is not terribly difficult, and involves about as much work as realigning the existing lifters. Use the FAQ Locator to find it. The newer lifters apparantly do not rotate, and do not suffer from alignment problems.
There have actually been a few versions of the lifters. The original were Mitsubishi part number MD149309 used in 1990 to 1997 cars. A redesigned version (part MD337687) was then introduced, and was replaced yet again by part MD377054. This latest part number is reportedly the best version but the availability may be limited if dealerships still have some of the older part still in inventory.
Those who search the archives may find a post detailing a noisy lifter solution, posted by Mike Ferrara. This solution does not actually deal with the lifters themselves, but rather concerns itself with the problem of carbon deposits on the valves. It is a relatively dangerous procedure, as it involves pouring automatic transmission fluid into the intake of the engine. As fluids are incompressible, a miscalculation can literally devastate your engine. A few DSMers have experienced major engine damage from performing this procedure incorrectly. Thus, this procedure is not recommended for the novice mechanic.
Rather than doing this dangerous procedure, those who have non-lifter tick problems should consider using Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner on their car. Other Digest members have had considerable success using it to clean major carbon deposits in the DSM engines. Read this page for details. Also read this post by Jeffery Micheal and these posts (1 & 2) from Pete Paraska for their experiences with the product.
Other sources of non-lifter tick include exhaust system problems including a cracked exhaust manifold, broken exhaust maifold bolt or stud, cracked turbine housing or other exhaust leak. Some owners have reported that their tick went away after changing, repairing or upgrading their manifolds. Others have found that their spark wires (whether new, old, upgraded or whatever) were arcing to the block, causing a sparking sound they mistook for lifter tick. This is usually detected by looking under the hood at a running engine in the dark. Finally, a few owners are sure their ticking is really the injectors firing.
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Try putting a small amount of Ajax on the back of the offending belt(s) and running the car. This helps clean the belts off. If this does not work, you can purchase belt dressing from any auto parts store that might quiet them down a bit. You can also check the belts for correct tension - sometimes overtightening the belts (by just a bit!) will eliminate the problem.
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Yes. Replace your thermostat. Although you can use a cooler thermostat, this may not be a good idea. See this answer for why.
If this fails to solve the problem, you may be having difficulties with your coolant temperature sensor. This sensor also affects idle, air/fuel mixture, and timing, and failures can generally be detected by the ECU as error code #21. A burned out fan switch or relay may also be the fault.
For racers that run their car at sustained high RPMs, it is possible that their cooling pump may not be operating that well due to cavitation. For these people, an underdrive pulley will spin the cooling pump slower than typical, allowing it to operate properly. This is not a concern for non-racers.
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My engine shakes a lot! Is there a fix? |
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Excessive engine vibration is a telltale sign that the balance shafts (also known as silent shafts) are out of alignment. These shafts are designed to counterbalance the engine to keep it from shaking during normal operation.
If the engine vibration just started, do NOT start or drive your car until you can verify that the balance shaft belt is okay. If the belt is old or worn, it can jump, causing the balance shafts to be out of phase. This, in itself, will not damage your engine, but is a symptom of much larger potential problems.
The real problem is that if the balance belt jumped, it may be getting ready to break, and could the next time you start your car. This in itself is not a bad thing (the car runs fine without the balance belt at all), but the balance belt has a nasty habit of hitting the timing belt after breaking. The timing belt will often jump or break after such treatment, which is, literally, an engine-destroying event. You can count on losing at least eight valves if the timing belt jumps, and probably all sixteen if it breaks. Repair costs can run into the thousands. It is for this reason that the balance shaft belt should be replaced at least as often as the main timing belt.
It is also possible that the engine will shake immediately after a timing belt change. This is indicative of a simple misalignment of the balance shafts in the engine. Running the car that way is not damaging, but is obviously undesireable. Return the car to the shop in question to have the timing re-done - driving it there is usually ok, although towing is great (especially if you can get the shop to do it). Read the timing belt VFAQ for more information. (Yes, it's listed in the FAQ Locator.)
Searching the archives for "balance shaft out phase" will pull up some more informative posts on the subject of balance shaft alignment.
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My transmission shifts poorly. Is there a fix? |
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Poor shifting is a hallmark of 1G cars. 2G owners have vastly improved transmissions, and do not generally suffer from bad shifting. If you have a 2G that has shifting problems, you must read this vital information regarding possible problems with crankwalk on the 2Gs.
For 1G cars, there are several fixes. There are also several TSBs on this problem, for various years. Check the NHTSA site for TSB information. Remember, TSBs are neither warranties nor recalls.
Solution #1 came up in 1992 when the first TSB called for adding a 'friction modifier' to the transmission fluid. The modifier increases the frictional coefficient of the fluid, so the synchronizer rings (synchros) match speeds faster. There have also been several synchro design updates throughout the various years, intended to improve the crunchy shifting. Of course, to take advantage of these requires a transmission rebuild.
Many DSMers end up using Redline MTL, BG Synchroshift or GM Synchromesh in their transmissions. All of these fluids have the same purpose - to increase friction, just as the Mitsu fluid modifier is intended to do. Most owners report at least some improvement with the new fluids, but most experience significantly better shifting. Opinions and experiences vary.
Recent experience suggests that Redline MTL gains in shifting performance by sacrificing synchro longevity. This is not exactly news, but more and more owners are reporting this problem with MTL now that there are alternative fluids available. Many owners considered the tradeoff to be well worth it. However, more people are now recommending a mix of Redline MTL with MT-90 gear oil, to combat both problems at once.
Poor clutch disengagement has recently become a suspect for poor shifting in DSM cars. Refer to the poor clutch disengagement checklist (below) for more information.
Problems have sometimes been found in the shift linkage as well, leading to the Tighter Shifter Page (90-94) that describes how to rebuild the linkage in 1G DSMs for improved performance. Kyle Jones even found that an incorrect aftermarket lower radiator hose was interfering with his shift cables and causing crummy shifting; cutting the hose shorter did the trick.
The Last Word: Eric B. would like to add:
"On the topic of Redline gear oil eating away the syncronizers in your transmission, there is a reason for that. It is the wrong API service grade (GL-5). Chemically, GL-5 isn't friendly with brass and will deteriorate your syncros, which is why differentials and transfer cases seemingly only call for it. Almost all (if not all?) transaxles require a GL-4 service oil. This is most overlooked by everyone. I found out the hard way also from my other car's transmission. I verified this being the cause of failure from a handful of machinist and transmission specialists. By mixing it as stated on the page, it is merely being dilluted and the corrosive effect is still existing, but reduced."
Personally, my car has had MTL and Syncroshift in it since '96, and it still shifts fine on the original tranny. YMMV. [Thanks, Eric!]
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Poor clutch pedal feel can often be attributed to binding of moving mechanical parts. Alternatively, problems in the clutch hydraulic system may be to blame, or a combination of both.
Despite popular opinion, it is possible to have a DSM that has a 'good' feeling clutch pedal. The key points appear to be to grease all the moving parts - throwout bearing, clutch fork and pivot ball - with a high-quality grease, and to replace the old stock clutch line with a stainless steel line (or, at least, a new rubber line). These items combine to prevent mechanical friction and hydraulic problems that can contribute to a poor clutch pedal feel.
Stronger clutches such as Centerforce Dual-Friction and ACT 2600 clutches have long had the reputation of providing a very stiff pedal. In these cases is it even more important that the clutch installation pay particular attention to the above items. In some cases, owners have reported their 'heavier' clutches feel better than 'lighter' clutches in a different car.
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Poor clutch disengagement can lead to the following problems:
In summary, here are most of the possible causes of clutch engagement/disengagement problems and their solutions. They are ranked in rough order of least difficult/expensive to most difficult/expensive. Most of these symptoms also apply to shifting problems that can manifest due to poor clutch disengagement.
| Cause | Solution |
| Air or water in clutch hydraulic fluid | Bleed clutch fluid and replace. |
| Master cylinder is leaking. | Replace master cylinder. |
| Slave cylinder is leaking. | Replace slave cylinder. |
| Clutch pedal rod is worn out. | Replace rod. |
| Master cylinder pushrod is incorrectly adjusted. | Readjust master cylinder rod. |
| Incorrect clutch pedal free play adjustment. | Readjust clutch pedal free play. |
| Transmission is loose, resulting in movement when clutch is depressed. | Tighten loose transmission bolt(s) by front engine mount. |
| Master cylinder rod too short for current clutch setup. | Lengthen master cylinder rod. |
| Master cylinder worn out. | Replace old master cylinder. |
| Slave cylinder worn out. | Replace old slave cylinder. |
| Poor lubrication on clutch fork and/or pivot ball. | Grease moving parts well. |
| Worn clutch fork pivot ball. | Shim pivot with one or two 3/8" washers to regain missing travel. |
| Poor lubrication on pilot shaft or throwout bearing. | Grease throwout bearing very well. |
| Worn or bent clutch release fork. | Replace fork. |
| Worn clutch pivot ball. | Replace ball. |
| Worn out or incorrectly installed clutch / flywheel. | Replace clutch / flywheel with new clutch and flywheel machined to correct specifications. |
Paying attention to the above items can make your next clutch swap a real success.
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My shifter moves around in 5th gear! Is there a fix? My shifter moves around in [1st-4th] gear! Is there a fix? My shifter keeps popping out of gear! Is there a fix? |
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This is a symptom of a serious problem, at least on 1G DSMs. Shifter movement is not generally normal in DSMs. Having the shifter move around, especially in 5th gear, or popping out of gear (even once or twice) could be an indication of a loose retaining nut inside the transmission. Several 1G DSMers have had the rotten experience of having this nut come off completely, and consequently blasting a hole in their transmission. This problem only affects FIFTH gear - gears 1 through 4 and reverse do not appear to suffer from this difficulty.
Those who are uncertain must read this post and this post, both by Paul Lyons, and this one by Ashok Babu, who had his transmission fail on him. Don't take a chance on this one, since the inspection procedure is easy.
This problem does not appear as common on 2Gs, and at least one owner has reported that there was a loose nut in his shifting assembly that was causing the shifter to pop out of 5th. This is NOT the same nut that is involved in the 1G problem.
2G owners who suffer from problems with the shifter moving around in a gear OTHER than 5th gear have a different problem. David Gowlowski reported that his transmission failed because of a bad bearing on the input shaft, which corroded away until his car would not shift into second gear. He believed that this bearing was part of a bad lot. He keeps a report on his website: read all about his problems here.
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David Cox had a problem where the engine RPMs would jump and the car wouldn't accelerate. In his case, it was the torque converter. Dan Henderson also had this problem, but all that was required was to refill the transmission with the correct amount of fluid.
In the case where the automatic transmission works except for the overdrive (4th gear), Kurtis Bredda had the "end clutch" (Mitsubishi part # MD723508) fail. Please see http://www.plymouthlaser.com/ for information on end clutch replacement.
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My stock battery died after only (x) months! Is there a fix? My battery keeps dying! Is there a fix? |
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The stock batteries in DSMs are not reputed to last very long. Many people experience failures within the first year.
Most people recommend replacing the stock battery with another brand, such as an Optima, Diehard or other aftermarket make.
It should be noted that poor contact (corrosion) on the battery terminals can cause the battery to behave as if it were dead, even though it may be ok. Also, persistently dead batteries may be the fault of the alternator or voltage regulator, not the battery. Poor idle and other problems can be caused by a defective battery.
Another little-known and highly annoying fact is that auto batteries, with few exceptions, are not designed to be run dead and then recharged, making them very different from most other rechargeable batteries. Recharging the battery too quickly will result in large amounts of internal heat, causing battery damage. Typical recharging methods (auto battery chargers, or running the car for a while) may damage even "bulletproof" batteries. Charge dead batteries gently to avoid this problem.
Those caught in the dead-battery trap will want this refresher course in how to properly jumpstart a car. Be sure to read the followup for a few more tips. (For those preferring a more 'official' view, read this article, provided by AutoConnect.) A few notes on these techniques: the negative is connected away from the dead battery (onto the frame) to minimize the chance of creating a spark that might ignite hydrogen gas leaking from the dead battery. This is what can cause a battery to explode, not the 'parallel' nature of the batteries, as described in DDD#7. Fortunately, few modern automotive batteries are prone to leaking flammable gases, but better safe than sorry.
For more information, read the Car Battery FAQ at the University of Alberta. For lots of info on batteries in general, read this page at Alex's Electronic Test Bench.
The Last Word: Some DSMs just seem to eat batteries. The proliferation of stock and aftermarket electrical accessories such as headlights, fog lights, in-car entertainment and navigation systems can strain a 12V system. That's why some car makers have changed to the 42V system. Storing a car for the winter with the battery connected can also draw down the cells owing to current draws from accessories in standby modes.
Battery-eating monster cars may also eat a corresponding number of alternators, making things extra hard on the battery. Investing a hardy deep-cycle battery like an Optima yellow or blue top might prolong your battery life - or, possibly, just give you enough to limp home the next time your alternator fails. Remember, the less times you discharge your battery, the better - even one discharge to 9V or less can be quite hard on it.
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No. This is normal, don't worry about it.
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Chances are you used silicone to installed a 1G BOV to your 2G. The silicone can plug up a little secondary air hole in the BOV. The hole is located next to the main BOV hole on the mounting flange. Clean out that little hole and the chirp should go away.
The Last Word: If it's more a whistle than a chirp, it may be the infamous "boost canary", caused by the BOV opening and closing. Don't worry about it.
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Poor boost is often a symptom of other problems. It is important to know why the boost is low before attempting corrections.
The DSM ECUs have partial control over the amount of turbo boost through the use of the boost control solenoid (BCS) a.k.a. the wastegate bypass solenoid. Under normal driving conditions, the BCS is open and allows the wastegate to open at the normal intake pressure. Should the ECU detect a serious problem with the engine, it will often close the BCS, causing the wastegate to open sooner and lowering the turbo boost produced.
The ECU uses the BCS to reduce turbo boost in several situations. Should the ECU detect a large amount of airflow into the engine, the BCS will be pulsed off and on to reduce the air intake to acceptable levels. This can lower the turbo boost significantly, and usually only occurs at high RPMs. This is usually a temporary problem, which disappears when the intake airflow drops to more normal levels.
The ECU will also close the BCS if it detects significant engine knock. Knock, also known as preignition or detonation, is a damaging condition brought on by excessively advanced ignition timing, lean air-fuel mixtures and/or low octane or poor quality gasoline. The BCS is the second and last line of defense against knock - the ECU will first retard the ignition timing in an attempt to prevent knock. If this fails, the BCS will close to reduce the intake air flow (and boost pressure) to a minimum value, hopefully eliminating the knock at the expense of engine power.
A simple LED monitor circuit can be constructed to check the operation of the BCS. If the BCS is pulsing, or remains closed during typical engine operation, it means that you may have some other problem that is making the ECU very nervous. This is often accompanied by retarded engine timing, resulting in a further power loss, all of which makes the car much slower than it should be. Note that the operation of the BCS monitor is not necessarily intuitive - study the Troubleshooting section, this issue of the Diagnostic Port, and the Boost Solenoid Details page very carefully before deciding you have a problem.
If the BCS is not operating as expected, suspects include poor quality gas, excessive turbo pressures, injector malfunctions, oxygen sensor malfunctions, and anything else that can lead to a low-octane, air-rich mixture inside the cylinders. Differences in mass airflow sensors from car to car will also affect the operation of the BCS.
If the BCS is fine, the timing may still be retarded due to airflow or knock problems. If you are certain this is not the case, it may be time for some modifications; see "What should I do to make my car faster, or handle better?" , above.
If you are certain this information does not relate to your problem, check your intercooler hoses. Often a hose has popped off, or is leaking air badly. Another spot to check is the wastegate actuator; make sure the actuator rod is still connected to the wastegate door. Otherwise, the wastegate may be flopping open and letting out all the boost air. Sometimes the arm has broken off the wastegate due to a rusted-out holding pin.
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My boost is too strong! Is there a fix? My boost won't stay where I set it - it keeps going up! Is there a fix? |
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This is called boost creep, and occurs when the turbo is pushing so much air that the wastegate, even when fully open, cannot dump all of the intake pressure. This results in a continual increase in intake pressure, and is common with upgraded turbos, especially with upgraded downpipes - the exhaust would rather flow through the turbo/exhaust than the more restrictive wastegate, which spins the turbo ever faster. Cars with this problem can develop mind-blowing (and engine-blowing) intake pressures in a hurry.
The general solution to this problem is to port the oxygen sensor housing, turbine housing and/or wastegate to allow them to dump more air. Otherwise minor malfunctions of the wastegate may also exhibit themselves as boost creep, such as poor travel on the wategate actuator arm. Some people use an external wastegate for better pressure control.
For more information, search the archives on this topic, or read these posts by Jack Zhe, Ken Okazakik, Samuel Merritt, Dan Kim and Frank Mowry for the highlights.
People interested in more theory behind this problem will enjoy Dennis Grant's Turbo Fundamentals Series.
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Owners who run high levels of boost to little or no effect on their cars may have their base engine timing set incorrectly. Although the ECU advances the timing as much as possible during operation, it has a limited range. If the timing is pulled back excessively, the ECU may not have enough adjustment to re-set it back into the correct range. Retarded timing leads directly to a loss of power.
The ability to run high boost levels and still go slow appears to be directly related to timing problems - DSMers who have run 18-20 psi with retarded timing suddenly find themselves hitting fuel cut at 14 psi, once their base timing is set properly. They also find their car is faster at 14 psi than it was at 18 psi, a direct result of timing advance. If you boost like crazy but still can't get decent times, check your timing straight away. See here for some info on how to do it.
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A 'knock LED' is a light wired up to the boost control solenoid (BCS) on the engine. The short answers to the other three questions are: Probably, no, and probably not.
Despite it's name, the 'knock LED' DOES NOT MEASURE KNOCK. [Doubters take heed: it DOES NOT.] All the LED is doing is informing you when the boost control solenoid has been tripped by the ECU. This has only the vaguest relation to knock, as there are many other non-knock circumstances that will cause the BCS to trip. This quite possibly gives the 'knock LED' the distinction of being the worst-named modification in the history of DSMs.
For details on this, read Todd Day's explanation of the subject here (he is the "talon mgr"). You can also read a complete explanation of the BCS operation in this issue of the Diagnostic Port from Technomotive, the DSM Knock Sensor site, and the 2G Knock LED FAQ by Warren Tsai. If you have problems with these links, use the results of this search.
About the only time that you can be certain the 'knock LED' is reporting knock is when it is solidly on. This indicates a last-ditch attempt by the ECU to limit boost, which can only occur when the engine is knocking for prolonged periods of time.
The LED will also flash when the ECU is attempting to limit the turbo boost (1G and 2G cars); when the ECU is "smoothing" out the normal turbo operation (2Gs); and when the car is first started and the ECU transitions the solenoid from fully closed to fully open (all turbo cars). These occurances are perfectly normal and not cause for concern.
As for the question of whether or not your engine is ok, you will only know that by looking at the operational setup and the circumstances under which you believe you may have damaged the engine. If you have been following the typical guidelines for upgrading your engine, you are probably fine. If you have upgraded your engine past the recommended guidelines or had some catastrophic event occur, your engine may be damaged. In real terms, 99% of people who are concerned about their knock LED flashing have absolutely nothing to worry about.
The Last Word: Anyone who actually takes the time to put in a "knock LED" by now is wasting their time. Not that it was ever really useful to begin with.
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My clutch engages/disengages very close to the floor. Is there a fix? |
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For those owning a new clutch, it is normal for the engagement point to drop low. The DSM clutch mechanisms are so constructed as to move the engagement point higher as the clutch wears.
To adjust the clutch on 1Gs, read this post by Dirk Starksen of Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT), and this one by Jim McKenna. For 2Gs, read this post by Brett Nashlund.
There is some mention in the archives about using washers to shim the clutch fulcrum. Kyle Zingg, the originator of this technique, later decided it was not a good idea. See here for details.
Gary Selph, John Snodgrass and Kevin Fabec all found one of the connecting rods for the clutch mechanism was worn, causing the clutch to engage lower that it should. This may be a fairly common but easily overlooked problem, especially on older cars. A good test is to see if you can pull the clutch pedal up with your foot. If you can, the rod is likely worn.
Gary and John both described the replacement process as being very involved (about six hours work) but Kevin seems to have an easier way. Read all about it here.
Another commonly overlooked clutch problem is wear on the clutch fork or pivot ball. The clutch fork could also possibly be bent, especially if heavy-duty clutches have been used. The pivot ball and clutch fork have both been mentioned as 'wear items' and should be considered for replacement if a new clutch is going in anyway.
Of course, the problem may also be related to the clutch master cylinder. Replacing the cylinder and clutch lines can sometimes fix the problem. A few people have used stainless steel lines. It is far from required, but some people have found a steel line improved the clutch pedal feel quite a bit.
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How do I prevent fuel cut? I have [injectors/fuel pump/fuel rail] installed, but I still get fuel cut! Is there a fix? |
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This question comes up a lot, mostly because people misunderstand what fuel cut is for, and why it occurs at all. For the answer to this, read this chapter of the ECU Primer.
The simple answer is that because fuel cut is pre-programmed into the ECU, there is no method of disabling it. There are no modifications that can do so, aside from an ECU upgrade that eliminates fuel cut. Upgraded fuel pumps, injectors, and fuel pressure regulators do nothing to avoid or eliminate fuel cut. NOTHING.
That being said, there are some methods (some cheap, some not) of postponing fuel cut. All the methods work on one principle: fooling the ECU into thinking there is less air entering the engine than, in fact, there is. This can be done by adding unmetered air, or by changing the sensor inputs used by the ECU to determine air mass. Of course, these methods usually mean the engines run leaner than stock. Again, read this section of the ECU primer for details.
Methods include:
An ECU upgrade from Technomotive is the only way to really eliminate fuel cut.
The Last Word: TMO doesn't make chip upgrades, but other people do. DSMchips is (or was) one of them.
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I just installed a [fuel pump] and it's really noisy! Is there a fix? |
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No. Aftermarket pumps are almost always louder than the stock pump - it is one of the prices you pay for getting the increased pump performance. The Walboro upgrade pumps are notorious for this 'problem', while ND and the Supra fuel pump are reportedly a little quieter (but more expensive). Adding soundproofing to the rear of the car should help. Kevin Belitski of Sask DSM sells sound deadening matierial at a discounted rate to other DSMers; see his product here.
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My fuel pump changes pitch when the [turn signals/radio/lights/other electrical device] is on! Is there a fix? |
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This is normal, and is a symptom of the alternator voltage dropping while under load - the same reason why headlights tend to dim at idle. Tom Stangl did some testing with a fuel pressure gauge and found that his fuel pressure remained 'rock solid' despite the changing noise of the fuel pump, indicating the pump is still pushing more fuel than the fuel pressure regulator needs.
Those who find this problem annoying or worrisome can fix it (or at least mitigate it somewhat) by doing the fuel pump wiring upgrade described here.
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My fuel gauge reads incorrectly! Is there a fix? |
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This is largely a 2G problem, where the fuel gauge sender unit has been knocked out of position. This often happens when the dealer does the gas tank recall on the car.
2G owners should look into getting the sender unit fixed. If that doesn't happen, it can be fixed using Jeff Brinkerhoff's $1.49 Fuel Gauge Fixer.
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My oil pressure is very low! Is there a fix? My oil warning light keeps coming on, but my oil level is ok! Is there a fix? My oil warning light keeps coming on, but my oil pressure gauge reads ok! Is there a fix? My oil pressure gauge reads zero, but my oil light doesn't come on! My oil level is ok! Is there a fix? |
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Low oil pressure at idle is normal for DSM cars - it has been reported that 12 psi is typical. It is not a cause for concern - read this answer for more information.
If the oil light keeps coming on, it is generally a problem with the wire between the oil sensor and the light. The sensor is a cylinder near the oil filter that attaches with a single wire; if the wire is damaged, it can cause the oil light to come on incorrectly.
A similar situation usually exists if the oil pressure gauge reads consistently at zero, even if the oil level is ok. The gauge and the light use different sensors and wires, so it is possible for one to malfunction without affecting the other. The connector to the oil pressure sender often falls off or breaks. The pressure sender is in the same area as the oil filter.
The Last Word: Low oil pressure seems to be common on many DSMs. As long as you have enough oil in the engine, it shouldn't be any problem.
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My oil dip stick keeps popping out! Is there a fix? |
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The dip stick is often usually forced out by excessive crankcase pressure. In many cases, however, this is not due to an increase in crankcase pressure - rather, it is due to a decrease in the holding power of the dip stick. Lots of these cars are over 5 years old, with many approaching the 10 year mark, and most rubber parts have lots their original resiliant nature. The rubber plug on the dip stick may have shrunk and hardened over time, causing the stick to come out more easily than before.
If replacing the dip stick rubber doesn't help, the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve is often at fault. This is an inexpensive little part that is supposed to vent excess pressure, but it can wear out or clog. A quick replacement may be in order.
Another possibility is replacing the breather hose with a small K&N valve cover filter, which will hopefully help to vent excess pressure. Bad turbo oil seals and worn piston rings are the next likely suspects.
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My [2G] has leaky windshield washer nozzles. Is there a fix? |
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There is a TSB for this problem, number TSB080795, NHTSA Item Number: SB039984. Unfortunately, no summary or listing of this TSB is currently available on the web. (Anyone who is willing to take the time to separate the 1995 DSM TSBs from the 1995 Sebring/Avenger TSBs should contact Todd Day for information on obtaining a copy of the TSB reference book.)
One DSMer suggested simply sticking a pin into the vent hole on the windshield washer reservoir cap. The stock hole is so small that it is hardly visible, and can easily get clogged. Cleaning or enlarging the hole keep pressure from building up in the system.
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It is likely that the drain hoses underneath the sunroof are plugged. You can unpluf them with some stiff, flexible cord like 18AWG wire or weed-eater line.
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This is usually poor ignition, caused by:
Try swapping each one out until you fix the problem. Testing the components may or may not reveal the problem; many people have had components (especially wires) test ok, but perform badly on the car. Plug wires may also be loose in the coil pack, although they may look fine.
Other possible causes include a bad battery connection (or bad battery), leading to poor power to the fuel pump; misaligned timing belt; excessively high airflow through the 1G MAS, leading to 'missed' counts; incorrect routing of the vacuum hoses on the throttle body (there was a mistake in a shop manual somewhere); decaying of the ECU capacitors (a must read - go here for details); worn camshaft lobes (normally only a possible problem on certain aftermarket parts called Web Cams); or (in at least one case) a broken thermostat.
Those with an interest in spark plug theory will enjoy these posts by Matt Blue at NGK. Those wondering about performance wires might want to read Shane Thom's second-hand narrative on the subject.
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My car stumbles/misses when I let off the throttle! Is there a fix?
The general consensus is that this is caused by the BOV, which can stick or plug. This appears to be especially true of the 2G BOV, although some 1G owners have had this problem as well.
Alexander Kowalski's Jan 27, 1999 fix to his off-throttle stumble went like this (edited for presentation):
"I took the BOV off a today for a closer look. I found some RTV plugging up a 3 mm diameter hole at the base of the BOV. This hole appears to be part of a passage in the BOV casting that travels straight up to the top. I am assuming it is some sort of return relief passage.
Not only did clearing the RTV solve my off throttle stumble, my BOV no longer sounds like a loud bird shriek between shifts. Its more like the soft 'phfft' sound I have associated with my two previous BOVs. Darn, other than scaring the heck out of my wife I really liked that sound."
Cleaning the BOV, replacing it or upgrading to a 1G unit should solve the problem. Owners of adjustable BOVs report that setting the BOV too tightly will cause this same problem, so a quick adjustment may be in order.
Owners who are having the problem with the engine RPM dropping abnormally low after letting off the throttle may be having problems with the speed sensor or idle switch on their cars. If one of these is malfunctioning the ECU may not realize the throttle is at idle until the engine RPM drops below the normal idle speed.
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My car stumbles/misses during hard cornering. Is there a fix? |
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This problem is fuel starvation caused by fuel sloshing around in the tank during hard cornering. Depending on the direction of the turn, the fuel pump pickup can get uncovered, leaving the pump with nothing to pump but air.
Owing to differences in fuel tank design, 1G AWDs have this problem when executing hard left corners, while 2G FWD turbos have problems with hairpin right turns. In both cases the fuel pickups are on the side of the car which is on the inside of the turn; of course, the fuel wants to be on the outside (opposite) side of the car.
The only fix for this problem is to have enough fuel. Most recommend at least 1/4 tank of fuel, but some hardcore autoxers say they need at least 3/4 of a tank.
2G AWDs and 1G FWDs apparantly do not suffer from this problem as much, as their fuel pickups are located differently. Despite this, autocrossers may still run into the problem.
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My car stumbles/dies when stopping. Is there a fix? |
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This is a symptom of a broken speed switch, which is a part of the speedometer in the instrument cluster assembly. With the switch inactive, the ECU does not know the car is moving and doesn't keep the idle high enough to operate the power brakes. For details on why this switch is important, read this post, where Todd Day (the 'talon mgr') explains it, and this one where he explains how to diagnose it. Search the archives for more information.
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Sally Vegso reported that her pulsation problem was caused by using Dextron ATF in her automatic transmission. Replacing the fluid with Mitsubishi Diamond ATF solved the problem immediately. Read all about it here.
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My [DSM] has too much understeer! Is there a fix? |
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All DSMs understeer from the factory. This is a natural consequence of using a FWD platform, since even the AWD cars were based on the FWD chassis. Understeer is generally considered 'safer' for the average driver, but can be a real pain for the advanced street or race driver.
Fortunately, many vendors offer suspension upgrades for DSMs. With judicious tuning (possibly with the help of this FAQ page of the Calgary Area DSM site (mirrored here), the understeer can be reduced or eliminated.
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It is perfectly normal for the wheels (especially the rear wheels) of most DSMs to be tilted 'inwards' - that is, having the top of the wheels closer to the centerline than the bottom. This is the amount of camber that the car has stock, and is not a cause for concern.
For those with measureable excessive negative camber, there are several correction kits available from various vendors which involve plates, bolts, slotted struts or shorter control arms. Several DIY methods exist using off-the-shelf parts as well, meaning there is something available for both front and rear on 1G and 2G cars. Usually, these kits are not necessary unless the car has been lowered, in which case camber correction becomes a necessity.
The methods for 1G cars were nicely summarized in this post by Chad Merritt. (If broken, use this link, and go to message #28.) Additional information on these fixes is listed below.
Canadians will be happy to know that Canadian Tire sells the eccentric bolts (TRW part# 13251A) required to do the front camber fix. Americans can buy Ingalls Engineering bolts from NAPA. DSMers from both countries can investigate the Ingalls Engineering website for more information.
With regards to the control arm modifications, note that hardcore racers may prefer extending the upper arm, rather than shortening the lower arm, to prevent the rear wheels from being pulled in towards the centreline of the car. The difference is so slight, though, that most people can't tell the difference. Additionally, the upper arms need not be as strong as the lower arms, allowing the use of less beefy (and expensive) heim joints for adjustable upper arms. This is not a factor for solid welded arms. Brackets for extending the upper rear control ars are sold by here by Taboo Speed Shop.
In August '99, Ingalls Engineering released a kit for adjusting rear camber on 1Gs using adjustable control arms. They also have a kit using brackets for the same task. Check their website for more information - it's the 3842 kit.
Those who search the archives will find a post by J.C. Moore, which includes another fix for the rear camber on 1Gs courtesy of Jake McClean. Unfortunately, this method does not work on 1Gs, as the rear suspension is completely different between 2Gs and 1Gs.
Fortunately for 2Gers, this method does work on 2Gs. It is described in the above post, as well as in this post by Thomas Wahjudi, and these posts [1, 2] by Paul Estavez. This method is also the basis for many of the 'camber correction kits' sold by vendors for the 2G.
Distinct from this is a kit described by Kyle Woolsey, who adapted some existing non-DSM parts for the task.
For 2G front camber, Kyle Woolsey mentions an Eibach kit here, and an Ingalls kit installation is described here. There is also a kit from Extreme Motorsports and Speciality Products Company (contact information here and here, courtesy of Scott Hemauer. SPC also sells a rear kit, only for 2Gs.
Several vendors also offer camber plates or other solutions for those wanting the ultimate in adjustability. For these, shop around the vendors page for Tiel, Carerra, Ground Control or other make camber plates. 1G owners be warned - they only fit the front.
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My steering goes away at high RPMs! Is there a fix? |
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This is a 'feature' of the DSM power steering system, which includes a speed-sensitivity feature that is intended to decrease operating effort at lower RPMs. This also means poorer response at high RPM, including the low speed/high RPM combinations required for autox.
DSS sells a modified power steering pump that fixes this problem - other vendors may as well.
Victor Del Col has worked out a fix for the high RPM cutout problem on 2G cars. There is a similar fix for 1G cars; a few details are available at this Calgary Area DSM FAQ page, and there is a VFAQ on how to modify the pump here, courtesy of Matt Price. [You would have found the latter VFAQ (hint, hint) had you checked the FAQ Locator.]
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This is normal for most DSMs. The alternator output drops slightly when the engine is idling, and the headlights will dim slightly.
Similarily, turning on the brake lights or turn signal puts an additional electrical load on the alternator. As a result, the alternator output voltage drops slightly, resulting in slightly dimmer lights. This holds true even for Canadians-spec DSMs equipped with the larger 90A alternator, and especially at idle. It is not a sign of malfunction.
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My power windows are slow or sticky. Is there a fix? |
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Most DSMs have this problem. Here are the fixes, courtesy of Tom Stangl (the VFAQ man), from a post in the Digest of Sept 25, 1998:
"The fixes are, in increasing order of difficulty
1 - Clean and lube the rubber channels in the window frame everywhere you can get to them without tearing the door apart. Do this by getting any rubber/vinyl cleaner, putting it on a rag, and wiping the channels until the rag comes out clean. This may take a LOT of cleaning. Then lube with NuVinyl, anti-static ArmorAll, or even dielectric grease (YES, this grease works well and does not gum up if put on VERY lightly and then rubbed off).
2 - Open up the door, and clean/lube the bottom section of the rubber channels you couldn't get to in #1. This will take raising and lowering the window to get all the areas.
3 - Check the bolts that hold the window to the window guide bar to make sure they are not loose.
4 - Loosen the bolts that hold the guide bar to the door, and move it forward or back to get the window to go up perfectly straight (not a lot of adjustment here, but it doesn't take much).
5 - Loosen the window guides (the metal brackets covered in bristly material) a little so they don't push on the window so hard."
Michael Reisin reported good results with using silicone grease of the type normally used on stock plug boots. He recommends greasing the window glass run channels in the interior of the door very well with this grease for a semi-permanent fix to the sticky window problem.
For those who are truly sick of the problem and don't mind using a little judicious force to set things right, Jeff Earl has the solution for you here. His solution involves bending the window track (only a little, so chill out) and removing a fastener that appears to interfere with the window operation.
Tom Stangl has a FAQ for this particular problem up now. Also try using the FAQ Locator to find it, or other FAQs on this problem.
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Problems with the power lock switches, lock mechanisms and actuators seem to be more common on 2G cars than 1G cars. Some of the problems have been caused by loose window switches, while others have been blamed on contamination of the lock mechanisms with debris, or simply worn out actuators.
Also, one DSMer reported a factory build problem on certain limited '99 model cars. Apparantly, the factory applied too much sealant to the inside of the door. The extra sealant (or 'gunk') can run and leak into the door locks, causing them to progressively freeze up or otherwise misbehave.
Unfortunately, the only solutions are to repair or replace the affected parts. Loose window switches can usually be fixed by repairing the screw mounting points that hold them in the door. Actuators generally must be replaced, as do door lock mechanisms.
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If the doors unlock themselves, it's often because the alarm "thinks" there is a key in the ignition. Improper installation of a turbo timer can cause this. This is a feature designed to prevent you locking your keys in your car.
If the alarm does not go off when the door is opened, the door pinswitches require cleaning or replacement. The switches corrode over time. Sometimes cleaning with baking soda is all that is required.
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My hatch struts/supports do not work anymore! Is there a fix? Has anybody ever replaced the hatch struts/supports on their [DSM]? |
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Just replace the supports - it's not hard. They are available at JC Whitney, NAPA, and Canadian Tire. The respective shops can look up the correct part number for you.
Read Tom Stangl's VFAQ on the subject for everything you need to know about how to do it. (Hint: the FAQ Locator would have told you this if you had used it first.) You can also read Ryan Denke's advice on how to fix it.
For a quick & dirty alternative to replacing worn hatch struts, read Dean's Daily Discussion #10, which describes a gizmo you can use to temporarily lock the struts in the open position.
To help prevent the struts from wearing out prematurely, James Williamson suggests not 'helping' the hatch rise by pushing it upwards. This apparently helps keep the pressurized gases inside the struts.
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Yes. Read these three articles from Roberto Landrau and Edward Puskaric (#1 and #2).
If all your lights are out, all at once, it is likely that the fuse for either the rear brake lights or rear marker lights has burned out. This fuse is linked to the dash lights to alert the driver that something is wrong. Check the fuses.
The Last Word: Most DSMs will have at least one switch light burned out by now. Probably more.
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This is often because your battery is sliding around and contacting the top of the hood momentarily. Check your battery and make sure it is secure.
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My cruise control doesn't work! Is there a fix? My cruise control won't set! Is there a fix? My cruise control won't maintain a set speed! Is there a fix? |
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This is usually an indication that the speed sensor behind the speedometer has failed. Without an accurate speed reference the cruise control refuses to set.
Another possible problem is wear on the clutch pedal, preventing the clutch pedal from coming up all the way. If this occurs the pedal will not press the switch that tells the ECU that the clutch is engaged. Consequently, the ECU "thinks" the clutch pedal is down and it won't allow the cruise control to be set.
An easy test is to pull up the clutch pedal with your foot and try the cruise control again. If it works, you have clutch linkage problems. For more information on this problem, read the answer to this question.
If the cruise control will set, but will not maintain speed, check out Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #2, where he describes how a split vacuum hose caused his cruise control to continually drop the vehicle speed. Eventually the hose popped off completely, and the cruise would not maintain any speed at all. Several DSMers have run into this problem - read these posts for details.
If the cruise control sets and holds speed, but 'hunts' (oscillates) around the correct speed, don't worry too much. Even stock DSMs have a certain point where the cruise control will oscillate slightly. This is due to the nature of the turbocharged engine - when the cruise control speeds the car up, the turbo kicks in and the car accelerates faster than the cruise control expected it to. The cruise is forced to decelerate to compensate, but the car will also slow down faster than expected as the turbo pressure dies out. The net result is a slight, constant surging on and off boost.
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2G cars have this sound. It is normal.
The Last Word: 1Gs have this sound too - for the rear wiper.
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I accidentally overreved my engine!! What kind of damage did I do? |
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Quite possibly none - the DSM engines seem remarkably tolerant of overreving. Dozens of DSMers have accidentally taken the engine waaay past redline for significant period of time without any damage. Read these posts for some good information on previous experiences with over-the-top engine speeds.
For an example of how other engines behave, see Todd Day's M3 Overrev Page. Ouch.
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From an October 10, 1998 post by David Gawlowski:
"[This is] ...caused by water evaporating in the exhaust stream. Occasional puffs [are] usually from condensation in the exhaust pipes (especially in humid areas) or a water balloon up your stove-pipe. Continual white smoke [is usually due to] a warped head/head gasket and coolant entering your combustion chambers. If you're really unlucky, might be from a cracked head."
Some people have reported that high boost levels may promote white smoke, for some reason. Turning the boost down some cures the problem. This might be related to worn out seals on the turbo, which can leak oil into the exhaust. A bad brake booster can potentially let brake fluid into the vacuum line, which also produces white smoke.
Turbocharger diagnostic charts can be found here from Majestic Turbo and here from Michigan Turbo.
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From an October 10, 1998 post by David Gawlowski:
"This is caused by uncombusted [unburned] fuel. Could be plugs, timing, clogged air filter, air/fuel mixture, wires, coil, etc. Start with the cheapest answer and work your way up."
Check out David's Turbocharger Troubleshooting diagnostic chart for a comprehensive guide to smoking and other engine problems.
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From Todd Hayashi, there are three likely causes:
Lorrin Barth pointed out that a fourth cause, especially on rebuilt heads, may be poor fit between the valves and the valve guides.
More details on blue smoke can be found in this post by David Gawlowski. Also check out David's Turbocharger Troubleshooting diagnostic chart for a comprehensive guide to smoking and other engine problems.
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Yes. It should turn off after a few seconds.
If your "Check Engine" light does not turn on, the bulb is probably burned out. Replace it.
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No.
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This indicator is lit every time the ECU detects a problem (any kind) with the car. Often the cause is a sensor failure.
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The ECU outputs a diagnostic code whenever the "Check Engine" light is lit. For 1G owners, you can:
2G turbo owners need an OBD tool to read the ECU codes. Non-turbo owners can cycle the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, and the "Check Engine" light will blink out the codes. For NT owners, the codes are the same as a Neon. For the meaning of the codes, check the Digest archives, look in a shop manual, or check out this link from the 2G non-turbo pages.
Lots of 2G turbo owners mistakenly try to cycle the ignition key to get the 'Check Engine' light to blink out the codes. It doesn't work on Mitsubishi engines - only Chrysler engines. 2G NT cars have 420A Chrysler engines very similar to the Neon cars, while 2G T cars have 4G63 Mitsubishi engines similar to 1G cars. For this reason the codes are also different between 2G turbo and non-turbo cars.
Check this section of the Club DSM Homepage [Technical Difficulties/ECU Problems/Error Code Readers] for more information.
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It is usually not a good idea to reset the ECU without first figuring out what is wrong. See "How can I find out what the "Check Engine" light means?", above. In many cases, resetting the ECU will increase the learn time, not decrease it.
For instructions on resetting the ECU and what this can accomplish, read this issue of The Diagnostic Port, and this section of the ECU Theory Series, both by Technomotive
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I installed an [exhaust/test pipe/cat] and now my "Check Engine" light is on? Is there a fix? |
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This is usually a 2G problem. For a good explanation of why it happens, read the comments at the bottom of this post, and Scott Evans' description of ODBII functions. So far the only "fixes" are to replace the missing oxygen sensor, or to try and create and electronic replica "sensor" that makes the ECU believe the original sensor is still in place. Since the OBDII software in the second generation ECU also does sensor diagnositics, creating a fake sensor can be a touch tricky. Information on how this might be accomplished can be found here courtesy of Blake Heisler.
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I keep getting a code 44 (ignition problem) from the ECU! Is there a fix? |
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Here is an excerpt from message #7 of the December 22, 1998 Digest, where Todd Day (the 'talon mgr') summarizes this problem:
" What to do if you get a code 44? Well, it seems that no one on this list (myself included) ever got this code thrown for a legitimate reason, like the coil being blown or the drive transistors being dead. I would start with the connections that go from the ECU to the drive transistors, the connections between the drive transistors and the coils, and finally the "tachometer" feedback link from the transistor unit to the ECU. Lastly, check the ground on the transitors as well as the power lead to the coils.
Oldtimers on this list might remember that this very problem happened to me the morning of the Virginia City Hillclimb a few years back. I tried messing around with a lot of stuff, including wiggling all the coil connections. The problem magically went away and didn't come back until a few days later. I wiggled the connections again and it didn't come back until the next roadtrip I took. Again, after that, it happened on a long roadtrip. I've not since seen it in over four years. I have done nothing special to solve the problem other than wiggling the connections. Guess the last time was the charm."
Fortunately, Darrick Yezak has come up with a more specific answer to the code 44 gremlin. On his 1990 AWD, the wiring harness leading to the power transistor was short enough to actually end up pulling the wires out of the connector. After he extended the wires to eliminate the tension, his code 44 problem went away. He said he had similar success with two different cars. Aaron Litt found a similar problem - the bottom two connections on his '90 pack connector became corroded and caused a code 44 problem. Those plagued with the code 44 will want to check their harness and connector ASAP.
The Last Word: Code 44 CAN come up legitimately, but you will know it, because you'll suddenly be driving a 3000 lb go-kart. The power transistor is easier to change, so try it first.
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According to Pete Paraska, there are three ways oil can get into your intake:
#1 is true regardless of the age of the valve. #2 is a symptom of blow-by, where oil is getting past the piston rings.
DSMers often install oil catch cans, valve cover filters (also known as breather filters) or other devices in an effort to keep oil out of the intake.
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Vibration problems can be caused by a number of things, including:
If repeated tire balancing fails to solve the problem, the tires may not be 'match mounted'. This process ensures the tires and wheels are combined to make the most round combination possible. Since tires are never perfectly round, this can be important. (Recent comments on the Lotus mailing list have indicated that Dunlop, in particular, has trouble building round tires. Since Dunlop was recently purchased by Sumitomo, this may have changed, if indeed it was ever true. Still, all tires vary in roundness to some degree.)
All good-quality tire manufacturers provide tire markings for match mounting, but sometimes tire shops don't know how to do it. See Jeff Brinkerhoff's description of match mounting, as well as the Tire Rack Tech Page. Ken Inn also had some comments on some other little-known tire information.
Drivers who experience an oscillating vibration (that starts, fades out and fades in again) may be the victim of flat-spotted tires. As the unbalanced tires rotate (at slightly different speeds), they will phase in and out of balance with each other. The only solution here is to replace the tires.
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My front brake rotors keep warping! Is there a fix? |
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This is a common problem on DSMs. The consensus is that improper tightening of the wheel lug nuts is often to blame. Nobody really knows if it is caused by overtightening (excessive force) or unequal tightening (uneven force). Most people put the blame on the widespread use of impact or air tools to do routine wheel operations, as well as inattentive or careless operation of said tools, which result in poorly done lug nuts.
While having correctly tightened lug nuts is always a good idea, personal driving habits may contribute towards warped rotors. Periods of hard driving, followed by long periods of brake application (such as at stoplights) may contribute towards uneven cooling of the rotors, promoting rotor warpage. Track driving can also be a problem, especially if the parking brake is engaged before the rotors have cooled down. The parking brake holds the rear brake pads to the hot rotors, again causing uneven cooling. Dirty pads, which can develop hot spots, may also be a factor.
Those who experience persistent warping problems on pre-1993 cars may wish to upgrade to the Big Brakes, but be warned - even Big Brakes will not necessarily prevent rotors from warping.
The Last Word: Some shuddering may be caused by uneven deposits on the rotors - Audi owners often blame this for problems. Also, while lug nut torque may be a contributing factor, most actual auto techs I've talked to sneer at this idea. The Subaru guys probably had it right decades ago - the rotors are just a bit small for this size of car, and get overheated easily.
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My paint is flaking/cracking/spiderwebbing/disintegrating/turning to powder! Is there a fix? |
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Many owners, both 1G and 2G, have had problems with paint. Certain owners have found the clearcoat layer of the paint turns to powder, making black cars appear grey. Others have had problems with cracking, flaking, or imperfections in the paint.
Those who have problems can sometimes get satisfaction from a dealership - Chrysler and Mitsubishi are dealing with complaints on a 'one-on-one' basis. Dealers will sometimes repaint the affected areas for free. Unfortunately this is not a recall, and usually the car is out of warranty, but it's worth a shot. 1995 owners may have an edge, as there is a TSB for this problem on 1995 cars only (TSB-95-51-001), but it's still not a recall.
There is a nationwide class-action lawsuit being brought against Chrysler for paint problems. Check out the Hagens Berman website for some more information on this lawsuit. You can also read Kim's Peeling Paint Page for more links relating to the problem. Kim apparantly took Chrysler to court over her paint problems, and has advice which is generally applicable to all automotive problems. The class-action lawsuit is not a substitute for trying to work out problems with your local dealer.
The Last Word: Hey, it's a used car, and probably an old one at that. Most of them will have flaking clearcoat somewhere.
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My headlights are cloudy/foggy/yellowed/scratched! Is there a fix? |
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There are several things you can try to fix headlight lenses that have become cloudy, yellowed or scratched. Click on the method to find the referring poster:
Robert Thompson had this to say regarding his headlight polishing experience (edited):
"Cataract Surgery on a 1993 TSi
Had to repeat this 3 times!
The results? Well, to start, my lens looked like they had been sand blasted. Millions of little craters that had blended and smoothed into a dull crappy looking plastic lens. You really could not look into the light and see a bulb. (I was amazed as just how crappy they were when I sat down and really looked at them)
What made this job a lot easier to do was I have a Black & Decker "Mouse". So I just strapped on the appropriate adapter and buzzed away....
Speaking of the Dremel, DO NOT use it for this project. You can't get it to turn slow enough and in a nano second you will "burn" the lens. (Gee, how would I know? Well... It takes about 30 min to sand out the burn.)"
Be sure the check the FAQ Locator for up to date information.
The Last Word: Replacement headlights are available on eBay. Just replace them.
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The carpet in the front of my car is wet! Is there a fix? |
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This is usually caused by the air conditioning condensor drain/dump tube becoming plugged or clogged. Water condensing inside the A/C system runs out onto the carpeting. Cleaning out the tube solves the problem. Read this post by Chris Schreppel for info.
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My exhaust manifold/turbocharger housing glows red at night! Is there a fix? |
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No, this is normal. Exhaust gas temperatures on DSMs range from about 775 degC to 825 degC on-highway, depending on whether you are within or over the speed limit. Most materials start to get 'red' hot at about 800 degrees C. The only solution to this 'problem' is to take it easy on the throttle.
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My exhaust manifold/turbocharger housing/O2 housing is cracked! Is there a fix? |
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Unfortunately, it is typical for 1G cars to end up with cracks in the exhaust manifold, O2 sensor housing and/or turbocharger housing. There is not much that can be done to prevent this, short of replacing original 1G manifolds or O2 housings with their more robust 2G counterparts. This is obviously not much of an option for the turbocharger, given the stock 2G turbo is smaller than the stock 1G turbo, and is obviously no help to 2G owners.
Short of replacement, sometimes the offending parts can be welded to close the cracks. This does not prevent them from cracking again, however. Unless you get a good deal on welding, it is probably best to simply replace the parts (preferably with upgraded parts). Those with cracked manifolds should know that many aftermarket exhaust headers also have significant problems with cracking.
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My transmission 'howls' or whines a lot when slowing down!. Is there a fix? |
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According to Terry Livermore in the July 8, 2000 Digest:
"Winding down or "coast down" whine or howl noises that go away when the accelerator is depressed are often caused by a loose or worn drive pinion bearing in the rear differential. These are usually loudest between 45 to 25 MPH. I once pulled the transfer case and driveshaft and drove a little to make sure before I decided where mine was coming from."
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My transmission output shaft is wearing away! How come? Is there a fix? |
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Transmission shaft spline wear can incorrectly be blamed on 'rusting'. It is usually the result of loose parts in the driveline setup that shift around, eventually grinding away the splines. Read this post by Rick ?, as well as his other posts (try this search) for more details.
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Maintained by Sean Costall. Changes and suggestions are welcomed! If you have any information on the answers to any of these questions or wish additional questions, please mail me.
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