How do I replace my timing belt?
How do I replace my timing belt? |
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you had checked the FAQ Locator. Tom Stangl has put together a comprehensive list of VFAQs on the subject.
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I need to replace my timing belt. What other parts should I replace? |
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There are many things in and around the timing belts that should be checked when doing a timing belt job, especially if replacements are done infrequently. (Owners who perform timing belt changes on a more frequent basis (perhaps as part of engine rebuilds or other work associated with motorsports) need not necessarily check everything each time, and will of necessity have the experience to judge what to replace and what not to.)
The following is a list of parts that should be checked, repaired and/or replaced during a timing belt replacement. The list is based off of experience with 1G cars. 2G owners can still use this as a guide, but 2Gs may have certain other specific problems not mentioned here.
For more information on why belts are so important on DSMs, read the section "Why is it so important to change the timing belt on a [DSM]?" in this FAQ.
| Part | Reason for check |
| All 5 belts | Broken accessory belts can hit the timing belt, causing it to jump or break. |
| Timing belt tensioner | Tensioner can wear out or separate, leading to timing belt failure. [Search for 'tensioner'] |
| Balance shaft belt tensioner | Same reason as timing belt tensioner. |
| Water pump | Replacing the pump requires removing the timing belts. Do it while the belts are off anyway if there is any chance the water pump might fail, or if it is near the date for scheduled replacement. Read this post to see what can happen if you don't replace it. |
| Oil pump sprocket and nut | The oil pump sprocket nut can come loose, and damage the sprocket. It can also spray oil over the belts, causing them to fail prematurely. Also, loose nuts can chew through the timing belt cover and may eventually hit the timing belt, causing it to break or jump. Read these for more info: 1,2,3, or search for more. |
| Seals for the following: oil pump, balance shaft, crankshaft, and the o-ring under the balance shaft plug. | They get old and brittle, and no longer seal well. |
| Timing belt tensioner bearing, timing belt idler pulley bearing, and balance shaft tensioner bearing | The bearings get dried out. They can be repacked, but are inexpensive to replace. Read this post by Gregory Trees for details. You can also replace the pulleys, but there have been some redesigns and new timing belt pulley may not fit quite right. For an example, read Eric Typpo's post detailing how to mount a newer pulley, and this post by Paul Lyons on how to distinguish between the old and new pulleys. |
| Crankshaft accessory pulley/harmonic balancer | The rubber portion of the pulley can become old and brittle, and can eventually separate, causing the pulley to fall apart. |
Other items that should be checked are listed in this post by Glen Ruczynski, and this one by Tom Stangl.
Note that after a timing belt job has been performed by an outside source, it is important to check and/or adjust the base engine timing. Not an alignment issue, this involves taking a timing light and double-checking that the base timing has not gotten screwed up.
This is not as straightforward as it may seem, since the ECU generally controls the timing and can 'fool' the mechanic into believing the base timing is ok. It is necessary to ground the timing adjustment connector in the engine bay to disable the ECU control and allow the engine to run at its true base timing. Otherwise, the ECU will do it's best to dynamically adjust the timing to the 'correct' value, even though the base timing is messed up.
Failure to do this check may result in the ECU lacking sufficient range to advance the timing as far as it should go, leading to a loss of power. Some Digesters have (belatedly) checked their base timing only to find that their timing was set all the way back, presumeably when a timing belt recall was done on their car. Once they reset the timing to the correct value, the car 'wakes up' and runs stronger than ever.
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Has anybody ever installed a shield to protect the timing belt? |
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This idea has been discussed before. No DSM owner is very enthusiastic about having their engine wrecked by such a minor event as a broken balance shaft belt.
Unfortunately, the consensus was that there was not enough room between the belts to provide a strong enough shield. The shield would have to be so thin that the belt would likely tear right through it, causing it to contribute to the problem rather than solve it.
Those who are interested in such protection may wish to remove the balance shafts completely. See this section of the 1000AAQ and the FAQ Locator for the latest information.
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Has anybody ever installed a manual/fixed timing belt tensioner? |
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Micheal Hamilton did this with his car, after he became dissatisfied with the factory automatic tensioner. Not for the average owner, it requires frequent and consistent timing belt inspections to ensure everything is A-OK. Read about it here.
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Has anybody ever removed the balance shafts in a [DSM]? Has anybody ever installed a balance shaft eliminator kit in a [DSM]? How do I remove the balance shafts in a [DSM]? What sort of performance improvement will I get by removing the balance shafts in a [DSM]? |
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you had checked the FAQ Locator. Tom Stangl has a VFAQ on the subject, as does Micheal Hamilton. Micheals method is 'free', as it doesn't use one of the commercially available balance shaft eliminator kits.
The disadvantage to removing the shafts is increased engine noise and vibration. By removing the balance shafts, you are removing the primary mechanism for controlling engine shake. The engine will sound rougher, noisier, and 'buzzier' than normal.
As for the advantages, opinions vary, and the debate is too exhaustive to report in full here. Proponents have the following reasons for removing the shafts:
Of these, only the removal of the balance shaft belt is uncontested, and is most cited as the reason for removing the balance shafts. Owners who have experienced $2000+ in engine damage as a result of a broken balance shaft belt generally don't want to repeat the experience. For information on why this belt is so important, read this.
Opponents counteract the other claims with arguments that the power increase from the engine might be negligible, and removing the shafts might affect long-term engine durability. Some say that getting the engine get the engine balanced and blueprinted will alleviate durability problems, but others disagree with this.
It would seem that claims of increased horsepower from this mod are difficult to make. Todd Day is highly skeptical about any claim of power increase by reducing rotating mass. He points out (quite correctly) that once a rotating mass is spinning, it takes much less energy to keep it spinning than it did to get it spinning in the first place. This makes any static estimate of power difficult to credit. Read his comments here.
Overall, the majority of owners who commented on it said they were happy with the mod, and found the increased engine shake quite bearable. Of course, most of these individuals were probably enthusiast drivers or racers, and so don't mind the extra noise.
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Has anybody ever installed stronger motor mounts in a [DSM]? What sort of performance improvement will I get by installing stronger motor mounts in my [DSM]? |
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Lots of owners have done this. In addition to simply strengthening the existing mounts, many people found that their stock mounts were torn or broken. Others say that stiffer mounts reduce the chances of wheel hop, which is in itself a large benefit. However, stiffer motor mounts don't really contribute to more power - it simply helps a high-power DSM stay together during hard launches.
There are several vendors that offer upgraded motor mounts for DSMs. Some are complete replacements, while others are inserts that fit into the holes of the stock motor mounts.
For those interested in more do-it-yourself solutions, Tom Tharp successfully improved the motor mounts on his 1G FWD by adding homemade polyethylene inserts. He wrote a VFAQ on the subject, which you would have found if you had looked in the FAQ Locator (hint, hint).
Other people have done similar things by simply filling the stock motor mounts with silicone or urethane caulking. This is apparantly a commonplace trick on the Nissan SE-R mailing list, and has been written up by an unknown SE-R owner here.
DSM owners who have tried similar methods of strengthening the mounts include Mike O'Flaherty, Spencer Hutchings, and Mark Purney, who wrote another FAQ on the subject here.
On a different note, Colby Leonard had a solid aluminum motor mount machined for his car. Read his impressions on this mod here. Also, Colby Leaonard had a solid aluminum mount fabricated for a small cost
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you used the FAQ Locator. Tom Stangl has several VFAQs up on how to install the fuel pumps, and recently added a section showing the specifications for common upgrade fuel pumps.
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You would already know some of this (hint, hint) if you had read the FAQ Locator. VFAQs for many DSMs have already been written up. A clutch swap is not a simplistic procedure and should only be attempted after due experience, or when you have lots of time to learn.
Note that there are two possible replacement throwout bearings for DSMs. One is all-metal, one is lined with plastic. Many DSMers recommend using the plastic lined one. This is because the throwout bearing rides on an aluminum shaft, and the metal bearing can score this shaft over time.
Along with the clutch, the following items should be considered for replacement. Note that not all parts need be replaced each clutch swap; most can be retained unless you are having problems with poor clutch disengagement or poor pedal feel.
The master and slave cylinders will generally show signs of leaking if they require replacement. The pedal line will probably not, but won't help much beyond possibly improving the pedal feel. The release fork and pivot ball may not show any significant signs of wear, but might be worn nevertheless. The flywheel need only be replaced if you desire a lighter version, or if the present flywheel is damaged beyond the capacity of resurfacing to repair.
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Has anybody ever installed a lightened flywheel in a [DSM]? |
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Lots of people. Opinions vary on driveability, but most racers seem to like them. For a good overview, read this post by Brett Nashlund, and this post by Brian Hood. Also search the archives for more information.
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Has anybody ever installed upgraded cams in a [DSM]? |
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Not a popular or often-discussed upgrade on DSMs, it nevertheless seems to show up regularly in highly modified engines. It also seems to be catching on more with non-turbo owners interested in performance mods, perhaps partly because of their middling price point. Scot Gray has reported good results using cams from the now-defunct Mutiny Racerwerx shop, and many of the faster cars include cams in their modifications list.
On the flip side, those who have installed new cams have often reported negative side effects, such as low vacuum and poor idle, which appear to be endemic to cam changes. Much more rare are first-hand reports of verified performance gains, making DSM cams a doubtful upgrade when compared to other modifications. (Owners of highly modified engines often change several things at once, making the effect of any single component unverifiable.)
To add to the confusion, Leon Reitman actually removed upgrade cams from his car after finding they provided no performance gain, despite HKS' claim of 11hp. David Buschur stated here that cams would not be a worthwhile upgrade for 99% of drivers, as the cam change only makes more power in the higher RPM ranges. It has also been reported by Kyle Zingg in the Dec. 21, 1998 Digest that a prominent vendor recommends against changing the cams, as the stock cams provide the most power.
The bottom line is that most owners do a great deal of work on their DSMs before thinking about cams. Turbo, intercooler and other such advanced upgrades are known to provide significant gains, so owners are recommended to pursue them first.
The Last Word: The more modern cams for DSMs can be great - as long as you have enough air running through the rest of the system to make them worthwhile. Most people opt to 264/264s, but 272s are - theoretically - also available They can be hard to get a hold of, though.
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Has anybody ever installed an upgraded ignition system on a [DSM]? |
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Some people have. It's not high on the list of things to do, since the ignition system is DSMs is reportedly very strong. In general, if you don't have a problem with it, there is no need to replace it.
Those interested in the theory behind ignition systems should read Dennis Grant's Ignition Theory Series.
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Has anybody ever installed an alarm system on a [DSM]? |
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Information on alarm and radio wiring for DSMs can be found at the Club DSM Southeast subregional web page. More information is at DSM Alarm Wiring Codes page, written by Jamey Vester, and from this post from the archives.
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Has anybody ever installed a turbo timer on a [DSM] with a factory alarm system? My turbo timer won't work with the factory alarm! Is there a fix? |
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you had used the FAQ Locator. Read the FAQ at Club DSM Canada.
If you're having problems with a Greddy Turbo Timer, you can check the manual from the Greddy website.
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Has anybody ever installed a PMS on a [DSM]? What are good settings for an PMS on a [DSM]? I can't get my PMS tuned correctly! Is there a fix? |
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Lots of DSM owners have installed the PMS. In fact, there are so many people using the PMS that the it has its own mailing list at egroups. There also exists two page on PMS tuning: here and here.
The manufacturer, EFI Systems, apparantly provides good support for the PMS. Unlike the AFC, PMS owners rarely plead for installation instructions.
It is in the nature of the PMS that it takes time to fully understand how to tune with it. Most PMS owners are willing to share their experience to save others from the same mistakes.
The Last Word: The PMS is a fairly primitive tuning system with only three RPM points. Do yourself a favour and get a DSMlink (available for 1G and 2G) or at least an AFC.
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Has anybody ever installed an ignition timing controller (ITC) on a [DSM]? |
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you had checked the FAQ Locator. Please read the VFAQ at VFAQ at Club DSM Hawaii.
The ITC is generally only useful on 2G DSMs from late 1996 to 1999. All prior model years have adjustable base timing.
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Has anybody ever installed an intercooler fan on a [DSM]? |
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Gary Selph did try this mod on his upgraded Alamo sidemount intercooler. His testing shows that the fan makes no difference in intercooler performance. Read his reviews here and here.
On the other hand, Mark Purney installed one on his stock sidemount intercooler. He reported good results with his installation, although other owners have found it makes no appreciable difference. Mark's review of this modification will be available in the archives shortly. Details of his installation are here. Unfortunately, Mark has no experimental data to verify his results.
Mark and Gary seem to concur that the stock intercooler might benefit from the fan, but upgraded units are unlikely to benefit. Gary also noted that a fan might work well with an intercooler sprayer installed.
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Has anybody ever relocated the battery to the rear of a [DSM]? |
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you had checked the FAQ Locator. Please read Dan Aho's VFAQ on the subject. (Dan has since upgraded his installation using a $10 marine battery box.) You may also want to read the VFAQ on isolating the second battery, which is also listed at the FAQ Locator.
Since many proponents claim this reduces the understeer on DSMs, there has been quite a bit of discussion over the years on this subject; be sure to search the archives for more information .
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Has anybody ever installed an welded differential on a [DSM]? |
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Many people have, although few recommend doing so for street-driven cars. There are actually two different versions of this modification - one for FWD cars and one for AWD cars.
FWD vehicles often suffer from excessive wheelspin on one drive wheel. While the one wheel is spinning, the other wheel loses power and cannot drive the vehicle forward. Winter drivers may recognize this situation from experience, as many drivers have become stuck in icy conditions when one drive wheel starts to spin. Although the other wheel might be on solid ground, it cannot get power, and the vehicle goes nowhere.
In this case, welding the front axle differential forces both front tires to rotate at the same speed, so the lost power is recovered. It is no longer possible for one wheel to spin without the other also spinning.
Of course, you don't get something for nothing - the differential is there for a reason. The main reason is that, when cornering, the wheels at the inside of the corner must travel a shorter distance than the wheels on the outside. The differential allows the wheels to rotate at different speeds. Eliminate the differential, and cornering becomes a lot more difficult, causing unusual suspension and drivetrain stresses.
AWD vehicles have a different problem. Many AWD car owners would like to measure their engine output on a chassis dyno - a big set of stationary rollers that can measure the force imparted to the wheels. The problem is that there are almost no dynos capable of handling a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
The simple solution to this problem is to remove the AWD transfer case, which distributes power between the front and rear driveshafts, and temporarily convert the car to a FWD vehicle. Alas, it is not that simple. Most AWD DSMs have a limited-slip differential installed between the front and rear axles. This component is designed to allow the front and rear driveshafts to rotate at different speeds - up to a point. If the front and rear axles start to rotate at radically different speeds, the hydraulic mechanism in the differential 'lock' the driveshafts together and force the front and rear axles to rotate in sync.
So? Well, removing the transfer case creates a situation where the front and rear axles are out of sync, all the time. The limited-slip differential 'sees' no rotation from the front driveshaft (which is now disconnected), yet there is rotation of the rear driveshaft (which is being rotated as the car moves). The limited-slip mechanism promptly locks, and stays locked. The differential was never designed to operate in this permanently locked state, and serious damage will quickly result.
To get around this problem, the limited-slip differential in the AWD DSM can be welded to ensure it is mechanically, and not hydraulically, locked. This eliminates problems with removing the transfer case, and allows an AWD DSM to be converted to FWD operation for dyno runs. Converting back is as easy as replacing the transfer case, although this isn't really that easy.
Unfortunately, it also means that the front and rear axles must always operate perfectly in sync, which is not usually the case while cornering. One or more tires in this setup with inevitably slip, as they are pushed off their direction of travel; odd handling and strange driving behavior might result. The situation is similar to the operation of manually-locked 4WD vehicles (trucks & off-road vehicles) while making tight turns - wheels will drag, and the drivetrain will 'hitch' or 'catch' as the 4WD mechanisms try to keep all four wheels rotating at the same speed while they travel different distances.
The handling problems with welded differentials usually restrict them to drag racing applications only. For more information, search the archives on this subject.
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Your local dealer will probably swear on a stack that you cannot, as the joint is not sold as a separate part. According to this post in the archives, the joint is available as a separate part and can be installed without replacing the lower control arm. Tom Stangl reports the joint is available at NAPA from Beck-Arnley, will fit both front and rear (at least on 1Gs) and costs around $40.
There have been reports, however, that the aftermarket joints that are available are not OEM-type joints, but generic joints that include a grease fitting. Despite this, there are apparantly no practical differences between the OEM joints and the aftermarket joints. Both types are "sealed" (by necessity), but the factory doesn't provide grease fittings for their ball joints.
For thos who really want OEM-style joints, Paul Lyons has found them at Autozone. They are made by a vendor called Perfect Circle; a part number is not available at the moment.
Those who prefer the original sealed-boot type may be stuck with purchasing the lower control arm, or shopping the boneyards for used control arms.
The Last Word: Ben Lauterbach very helpfully provided the part number from Advanced Auto Parts. It is TRW part 10371 for a 1g and reportedly runs about $30. Sorry to 2G owners, I don't know of a part for you. [Thanks, Ben!]
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Yes. Dealers and vendors sell the boots as a separate part. Energy Suspension also makes the boots as a separate part. Phone around.
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There are many shops that offer pop-up glass sun roofs. Also, David Scott says that ASC and Hollandia both make tilt-and-slide glass sunroofs that will fit DSMs.
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The following vendors sell them. There may also be others. This list may be out of date.
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Several people. For a good body kit reference, see Paul Cahill's post in this Digest. (If the link fails, try this search instead.)
If you're having problems finding a kit, try Google or this answer in this FAQ.
Those seriously interested in a kit will want to read Richard Howell's complaints against his Andy's Autosport body kit. (Search for 'Howell' in the file; if the link fails, try this search instead.)
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You would already know this (hint, hint) if you had checked the FAQ Locator.
Several people have done variations on this. A fairly elaborate scheme can also be seen here.
The Last Word: With the advent of the MAF Translator, a cold-air intake system is a lot more practical than it used to be. Check the vendor websites for current offerings.
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Maintained by Sean Costall. Changes and suggestions are welcomed! If you have any information on the answers to any of these questions or wish additional questions, please mail me.
This page is an extension of Club DSM .