Briarlane Beagles - What to Buy Before Puppy Comes Home

What to Buy Before Puppy Comes Home

We prefer to give our business to pet supply stores that do not sell dogs or cats; you will have to consult your own ethics on this one. I am very happy shopping at Pet Food N More (Vancouver area stores) and find they usually have everything I need. Some of the products listed below must be purchased through your *Veterinarian.

Crate
200 MEDIUM 27 x 20 x 19 inches for a Beagle
300 INTERMEDIATE 32 x 22 x 23 inches for a Border Collie
Absolutely essential. You may have better success at 'crate training' if you have a smaller crate while the puppy is still little, but this is the size you'll need for an adult.
You'll want to get some inexpensive bedding that is easily washable - something you won't mind throwing out after just a few uses should the puppy decide to do some serious chewing. I suggest bath towels from WalMart - at less than $5 each they are very cozy and absorbent. Oh, and see those plastic dishes in the kennel? Take them out and put them away somewhere. You may want them if you ever decide to fly somewhere with your beagle, but in the meantime, they are simply a dangerous item for your puppy to chew on.

Food and water bowls
Stainless steel and/or crockery. Do NOT buy plastic. Plastic dishes can harbor bacteria which can lead to infections in the mouth and nose. I use stainless steel, one quart size for food and a bigger crockery one for water (crockery is heavy and difficult to tip over). Get several of the dinner bowls, they go in the dishwasher after every meal and it’s so much more convenient to have spares.

Food
Your puppy has been raised on Purina Pro Plan, chicken and rice formula. I highly recommend you keep him on it! You can also use Purina One puppy formula, it is ALMOST the same. If it is necessary to change brands, do so very slowly, blending the ProPlan with the new food in ever decreasing amounts over at least a week. Housebreaking is hard enough without dealing with ‘the runs’.

Collar and lead
You will need a nylon webbing collar that is adjustable, so it can grow with your puppy. Buy one that will fit a 10” neck as the smallest size. 'Limited slip' collars are a great idea for walks - the collar can't slip over the puppy's head. Get a matching lead at the same time, 6 feet or 4 feet, whatever you are more comfortable with. The best collars are made by Mes Amis mailto:mesamis1@aol.com, right in Seattle. They are buttery-soft, easy on your hands and easy on the puppy's neck, they don't leave a mark on his coat, and the 'slip' design means the collar can't slip over the puppy's head. You want size 'small' - it will fit now and still fit your adult beagle or border collie.
P.S. Don't choose a lead with an enormous heavy snap that will bonk the puppy on the head, and don't get one of those 'chain' leads, thinking that will thwart the little guy from chewing up the lead. Instead, he'll break off a tooth or two and you will HATE the feel of it as well.

Flexi-lead
This is a lead that extends and retracts, for walking in the park (keep it short and locked when on the sidewalk, they can get into traffic SO quickly)!!! I like the one that extends up to 16’, for dogs up to 44 pounds. If you can find it, get the one with the webbing lead, not the cord. It’s much easier to see and less likely to cause ropeburns on your shorts-clad legs in summer.
FLEXI WARNING!
An accidentally dropped flexi-lead (the owner tripped) recently cost the life of a friend's young beagle. Such a tragedy, and it could happen to anyone. It is SO easy to drop the darned things and they can scare any dog - with the flexi seeming to 'chase' them, they just panic and run. I can't tell you how many times I have been lucky... I recently purchased a FREEHAND SAFETY STRAP and now I can walk my dogs without the worry.
It's inexpensive, and so convenient, too!! I would never use a Flexi without one now.

Toys and Chews
Nylabone makes excellent chewing toys. My guys all particularly favour the 6” circle and the ‘Y’ shaped one. When they are grown up, you’ll need the toughest ones; baby teeth do better with their softer chews called Gumabone. Stuffed toys made especially for dogs are great, and may help with any separation anxiety your puppy has after leaving his siblings. Cow hooves are very appreciated for chewing, but I warn you - they can be smelly. I do not recommend rawhide - it has been known to cause death through choking and bowel blockages.

Baby gate(s)
You'll need one if you plan to restrict your puppy’s access to certain areas of the house (it’s a very good idea - especially keeping the front door inaccessible).

Exercise Pen
A good investment! Excellent for containing puppy now and in the future, inside and out. Essential when travelling or visiting friends with an unfenced yard. Use it inside when puppy is a baby and you have to be out for more than a couple of hours - just put paper or litter in one end and a bed and water dish in the other. If you want to use it when the puppy is grown, buy a 48" high pen.

Litter Box
Your puppy has been raised in an environment where he is naturally inclined to go to an area of pine shavings to relieve himself. You may find it easier to provide him with this facility in his exercise pen or just outside the back door while he gets used to his new home and it’s rules. A plastic ‘under-bed’ storage box works well, or any plastic container with sides less than about 10” high and enough area for the puppy to get in and sniff around a bit. Pine shavings rather than cedar because cedar is irritating to sensitive paws.

Dog Door
Your puppy has learned to use a doggie door with a clear plastic flap to access his outdoor potty area. If your yard is VERY securely fenced and he's restricted to an area close to the house, a dog door access to outside can make housetraining much simplified. You'll still want him safely crated when you are not there. Dog thieves LOVE dog doors, if they are left open when the family is not at home.

Grooming supplies
Nail clippers: The scissors type is a little easier to use. You can probably use people nail clippers for the first month or so. You may want to buy a little container of a product called QuikStop. If you cut too much off and the nail bleeds, a dab of QuikStop will stop the bleeding.

Brush:
A rubber grooming brush is great for removing dead hair and providing a soothing massage - my dogs' personal favourite is a little pink number called the Zoom Groom.
A natural bristle brush with short, even bristles is good to smooth the coat and make it shine.
Ear cleaning: A bag of cotton balls, and a bottle of Epi-Otic (available only from your veterinarian).
Shampoo: Choose a mild shampoo made especially for dogs.
Flea and Heartworm control: Sentinel tablets, once per month, will protect your puppy from fleas, heartworms, and many other parasites. You'll need to get this from your vet.

Clean up
You will need a supply of a good cleaner/deodorizer especially made for doggy mistakes on the carpet. I recommend the heavy-duty shop-type paper towels for carpet cleaning tasks. After spot cleaning we soak the area with the solution, put down a thick layer of fresh paper towels, cover with a small piece of plywood and weight it with a heavy object for a few hours.

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