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The ring of ABS drain pipe & a cut-down coupler. In the finished sink, the rubber gasket will seal against the exposed edge of the coupler. The whole assembly will be kept captive by a shoulder of concrete between the drain flange and the coupler.
30 June 2007, 11:17

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The gasket in position. The concrete should come just to the top of the ABS coupler, maybe a smidge above. This drain was used on the two previous trials, and has some concrete stuck inside of it.
30 June 2007, 11:17

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Poor-mans shake table. The rebar is clamped to a 'table-top' that is perched on a couple of saw horses, medium wobbly. A reciprocating saw fitted with a really dull coarse blade is used to gnaw at the rebar, making sweet vibrations.
30 June 2007, 11:17

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The overall setup. The black pipe on the right end of the mold is a test to make a bullnose edge on the countertop. The bowl is going through its second trial and is showing wear and tear. The bottom has been bent from my attempts to extract it. This test will only build up to the top of the mold; no full sink, just a rim. You can see the copper ring which will become the rim of the sink.
30 June 2007, 11:18

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A fillet of plumbers putty to keep the corners from becoming too sharp and weak. I have used the same technique before, including at the rim of the sink. Works well. Use a piece of tubing to form the fillet.
30 June 2007, 11:18

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Closer view. The plastic bull-nose molds were 1-1/4" ABS drain pipe ripped in half on a table saw. Part of the test is to see how well they stay in place simply from the concrete push outward on them. The ring of copper is 5/16" copper tubing. a piece of bent 14 guage wire is insed at the seam where it is soldered together.
30 June 2007, 11:18

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A lttle better view of the plastic bullnose mold.
30 June 2007, 11:19

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Was hoping to get a decent picture of the mitre joint at the corner. It isn't perfect, and more attention to detail when ripping the pipe on the table saw is required.
30 June 2007, 11:19