Tamiya 1/12 McLaren MP4/6
By Bil Attridge
A few years ago, the MP4/6 by Tamiya was quite elusive; an original mint kit was worth approximately two to three times its original selling price… that is if you could find someone willing to part with their plastic treasure. If you had the Clear View version (kit # 12026) with the pre-painted Ayrton Senna figure and tampo printed tires, the value was nearing $700.00 US for the die-hard collectors. In early 1999, Tamiya surprised the Formula One model builders around the world with the re-release of the McLarens which included the 1/20 MP4/4, MP4/5B, MP4/7, MP4/8 and of course the 1/12 MP4/6. The Clear View version was not re-released, thus somewhat preserving the value of these highly sought after models, although, their value did decline slightly. Of course, the impending re-release of the regular 1/12 version immediately sent collectors into a furry, and almost instantly, the market was flooded with individuals trying to sell this model at unrealistic prices. The consumer only had to wait a short while in order to buy a brand new MP4/6 at a manufacturer’s retail-selling price, which would be an absolute bargain!
Prior to the re-release, I could only dream of purchasing the MP4/6, I simply couldn’t justify spending $300.00 US or more on this model. I didn’t hesitate to purchase Ayrton Senna’s 1991 World Championship car from EBAY shortly after they returned to the market…finally the wait was over! The easy part was over now, the next item to acquire was the even more elusive Formula Perfect Manual based on the real McLaren MP4/6. This would be a challenge in itself! After posting numerous ads on www.f1m.com, I finally had a gentleman in Singapore that was willing to trade me my Formula Perfect Manual on the Ferrari 641/2 for his copy of the MP4/6 Manual. Surprisingly enough, the manual arrived still factory sealed in perfect condition. It was a difficult decision whether I should open it up or not, but I had to!
I was now geared up to clear off my workbench to construct this model with the intentions of creating one the most detailed scale MP4/6 that the modeling world has seen. My aspirations were fuelled by seeing the works of art created by Andy Matthews, Ray Lord and a couple of other select builders of this McLaren.
Approximately two months into building the drivetrain, I discovered that F1 Specialties (based out of Nevada) would be selling 1/12 Super Detail Kits designed specifically for the MP4/6 under the name of Perfect Parts. Naturally, I had to have this kit if I was to build the “perfect” MP4/6. A couple of weeks later the detail kit arrived in the mail. I was prepared to perform some retrofitting from the newly acquired detail kit to what was already underway, so after studying the Perfect Parts instructions, I carefully went about replacing the plastic parts with the various multimedia parts that would significantly enhance the realism of this Honda V12 powerplant.
Engine/Transmission/Rear Suspension
After painting the engine block and transmission, the first order of business
was building up the detail on the valve covers, as they were very intricate
and prominent as per the photos in the FP Manual. The “valleys”
and Honda logo were covered with Bare Metal Foil aluminum and then a simulated
powder coat finish was applied. The valley was protected with liquid mask, but
the logo was painted over and then lightly polished to expose the raised aluminum
Honda letters. The majority of the metal brackets were scratchbuilt from either
flattened pop can aluminum and/or the metal slide plate from 3 ½ floppy
disks. Machined brass electrical connectors from the Perfect Parts Detail Kit
(PPDK) were used with appropriately sized black wiring that I have been scavenging
over the years. Other than utilizing the photoetch PPDK throttle return spring
bracket parts, the entire throttle linkage was scratchbuilt from pop can aluminum,
straight pins and aluminum tubing (Heim ends) with the addition of various photoetch
nuts, bolts and washers. This assembly was built and assembled two complete
times before I was pleased with the final product.
The major retrofit from the PPDK consisted of replacing the velocity stacks within the airbox tray. Once the plastic parts were carefully removed, the tedious task of drilling out the tray to accept the larger diameter turned aluminum stacks begun. Each hole had to be perfectly aligned or else the final assembly would leave the stacks misaligned and the underlying photoetch butterfly valves would not line up accordingly. The velocity stacks mounting plates were covered with aluminum Bare Metal Foil and photoetch bolt details added. Scale Motorsport carbon fibre decal was applied to the airbox tray. This whole assembly took many hours to perfect, but the end result was significantly enhanced, especially when gazing down into the velocity stacks and viewing the realistic butterfly valves.
The transmission and rear suspension took many months to complete. It took me countless hours of studying my reference figuring out where each line originated and terminated, the appropriate metal colour for every part and what needed to be scratchbuilt and/or added from aftermarket sources. I used numerous AN fittings from Sakatsu, RB Motion and Modelers, these companies produce the highest quality fittings for the most authentic replication. The rear anti-roll bar was completely replaced with metal parts from the PPDK, although the layered photoetch rear links were filled with CA glue and baking soda so they appeared as one solid part, but maintained the etched detail on the sides. Weld seams were added to the oil reservoirs by dragging white glue across the appropriate area with 30-gauge bare wire. Various sizes of electrical heat shrink tubing were used for the numerous larger diameter lines such as the crossover line between the two reservoirs. Model Car Garage photoetch hose straps were applied, straight pins were cut down to about 1.5 mm, the ends machined square and fitted to the side of the hose straps. Photoetch slotted bolt heads were applied to the top end of the pins to complete the assembly. This detail is virtually impossible to view with the naked eye, but nonetheless, it is there!
The half shafts and shift linkage rod from the bulkhead to the rear transmission were all replaced with aluminum rod and painted accordingly. The rear radiators were modified by removing the incorrect molded-in plumbing locations, weld seams created, PPDK photoetch radiator faces inserted, turned aluminum fittings with the addition of silver solder to replicate the AN fixtures and braided stainless steel lines were used to duplicate the full size car. The radiators were airbrushed with Alclad II chrome and toned down with Metalizer Sealer.
The cross members located on the rear jack supports were replaced with fine brass rod, the overflow line was created from clear fishing line and all tie wraps were made by cutting larger diameter black wire sheathing into approximately 0.3 mm segments using a brand new #11 blade.
The Honda’s headers are one of the main focal points of the completed model, therefore they had to be built and finished with the utmost detail. Once all the molding seams and ejection pin marks were removed, the header assembly was glued together ensuring that they were perfectly aligned with both the engine and the exhaust outlets on the chassis plate. As described with the oil reservoirs, weld seams were applied and the molded in sensors removed. Next came the painting, but there is really no way I can describe how it was accomplished, because over the time span of building this model, I must have repainted and/or reshaded the headers four or more times until I was completely satisfied with the overall result. I can tell you that I used many shades of Model Master Metalizer paints, clear blue, orange and purple, Testor’s rust, Alclad II chrome, SNJ powdered aluminum, brass Metalizer and white chalk dust. Rather than using any of the PPDK parts for the header assembly (header flanges, connectors and sensors), I used my own ingenuity to produce these details. I applied chrome foil to the header flanges on the engine block, then painted the block and polished the paint off the flanges resulting in the outside edges being highly defined. The foiled flanges were shaded using an orange highlighter marker. Photoetch bolt heads were applied for the finishing touch. The pipe connectors were fabricated from coke can aluminum and finished with photoetch nuts and bolts. White glue was used to join the connectors to their suitable location resulting in the excess glue simulating the weld seams. Lambda sensors were created using large diameter photoetch nuts, bolts and washers, hexagonal plastic rod and Sakatsu machined aluminum air jack fittings, which resemble the real cars sensors almost perfectly.
The body panels that are intertwined by the rear suspension were thinned as well as the carbon fibre flanges used for fastening the main cowl.
Cockpit
The MP4/6 cockpit provided a canvas for plenty of detailing. Every surface was meticulously covered with carbon fibre and carbon Kevlar decal, ensuring the weave was symmetrical from side to side. Plenty of photoetch NBWs were applied throughout. My trick to give the required photoetch fittings an anodized gold finish is to simply run an orange highlighter over the bolt…that’s it! The molded driver’s seat was given a worn suede-like look by airbrushing flat grey to the surface, sealing it with Metalizer sealer and generally applying white chalk dust with a large soft paintbrush and blowing off the excess with air pressure. The driver’s harness and hardware is a combination of kit supplied material, PPDK and scratchbuilt items. Of note, all of the harness’ buckles are metal with Tamiya clear blue airbrushed as required. Strips of black drafting tape simulate the racing tape that’s used for armrest padding for the driver. Tally plates were created from paper, all toggle switches, buttons and knobs are replaced with scratchbuilt metal parts and machined aluminum items from Sakatsu. The dash display is filled with Testors’ Dullcoat to simulate an LCD appearance. The brake, clutch and accelerator pedals were modified; brake and clutch linkage assemblies are scratchbuilt as seen from the access opening above.
Monocoque
The McLaren’s monocoque has always been the subject of debate about the correct exterior texture and colour. I comprehensively researched this subject with the photo references I had in addition to many discussions with model builders on F1M and GPMA internet groups. I left the molded-in carbon texture, as this is definitely correct, the trick was getting the colour accurate. Prior to any paint being applied, I used Tamiya masking tape cut into 2 mm wide strips and burnished these “bonding strips” to all of the appropriate edges and seams of the monocoque, as per the real car. The following is a description of the multiple step paint technique that I used to perfect the monocoques finish:
First coat – Custom mix of Model Master Black Chrome Trim/Testors Metallic Lime
Gold/Testors Metallic Copper
Second coat – Testors Dullcoat mixed with Model Master Turn Signal Amber Metallic
Third coat – Model Master Metalizer Sealer
Fourth coat – Model Master Metalizer Sealer mixed with a custom Black/Gray mix
Fifth coat – Another coat of Testors Dullcoat mixed with Model Master Turn Signal
Amber Metallic
Final coat – Model Master Metalizer Sealer
Now that the monocoques finish was completed, it was time to start the tedious job of adding the hundreds of parts required to duplicate the full size tub. Modeler’s carbon fibre was applied to the nose cone and polished to a gloss finish with Novus #2 plastic polish. The front suspension was the first subassembly to be added to the monocoque, as described in detail later. More countless hours were spent studying my reference material figuring out the exact routing of the dozens of feet of electrical wiring and plumbing that I added throughout the car. I spent an immense amount of time ensuring the electrical wiring maintains scale gravity…that is to say, the droop of the wiring must not defy gravity and that the flow of the wiring is natural, no irregular curves or kinks. I believe this is one of the most important keys to super-detailing.
Machined brass electrical connectors, photoetch connector base plates and mounting brackets were used from the PPDK. Each electrical line is stepped up three times to the connector using multiple sizes of wire and shrink tubing. Each line also has its own identification label made from cutting white decal into minuscule rectangles. The molded-in details of the electrical boxes on the rear upper angled sides of the monocoque were removed and subsequently replaced with photoetch bolts and washers, the securing straps were replaced with formed 30-gauge wire and photoetch buckles.
The electrical box over the fuel cell (behind the roll hoop) was further detailed by creating securing straps from strips of black electrical tape, photoetch buckles and latches from the PPDK. The metal tray below the electrical box was scratchbuilt out of aluminum from 3 ½ floppy disks. The kill button and emergency electrical cut-off were fabricated from aluminum tube and brass wire respectively. I even went as far as detailing the fuel vent hoses and various fittings underneath the electrical box, although, they will never be seen again, but as the old adage goes, I know it’s there! I applied aluminum bare metal foil to the rear bulkhead and airbrushed clear yellow overtop therefore creating the appropriate anodized finish somewhere between gold and silver. The heat shielding plates that protect the bulkhead mounted electrical connections were scratchbuilt from the same floppy disk aluminum. These heat shields are one detail that is often overlooked on the MP4/6 by other model builders!
Front Suspension
Other than the lower section of the front shocks and the stock white metal suspension arms, the entire front suspension is from either the PPDK or scratchbuilt.
Extensive use of various manufacturers’ photoetch NBWs were utilized to assemble the almost all metal suspension components. The two small electrical boxes were replaced with true-to-scale units and wired. The lower U-shaped shock mounts were substituted with brass scratchbuilt parts and the pushrod arm’s adjustment nuts were added by slicing hexagonal plastic tubing. I was able to assemble these by making a cut on the underside of the nut and subsequently spreading it over the pushrod, then gluing it back together. When viewing down into the monocoque through the circular access opening, an obvious detail is missing, the steering shaft U-joint. I searched through my parts box and came up with a driveshaft universal joint from the Accurate Miniatures Grand Sport kit. The steering column was substituted with aluminum tubing in combination with the detailed U-joint.
Sidepods
Another detail overlooked by previous build-ups of this model is the accurate textured finish on the sidepods. I had to create this finish for the ultimate MP4/6, but the question was how? I decided to try something unique; the material needed was under my nose the whole time…Kleenex! I separated the two ply Kleenex into single ply, created a template of the sidepod, much like one would do if you were applying carbon fibre decal, slightly oversized in case the tissue slightly shrinked. For the adhesive, I mixed up white glue and water. I positioned the Kleenex and then proceeded to apply the adhesive over the tissue with a soft Q-Tip. If you try this technique, ensure you blot the Q-Tip, do not drag it over the tissue or you will undoubtedly tear the Kleenex. I applied the adhesive until the Kleenex was completely saturated simultaneously blotting out large wrinkles; remember though, the point is to leave small wrinkles and imperfections as the real car portrayed. Once the adhesive had cured, (I sped it up with a hair dryer) I carefully trimmed away any overhanging edges with a sharp #11 blade. I mixed up a custom batch of paint for the correct finish that would be airbrushed on and then a final coat of Metalizer Sealer. The finishing touch consisted of a light dusting of white chalk dust to accentuate the textured surface. I was overwhelmed by the success of this technique, so give it a try.
In order to maintain scale, the inner and outer sidepod walls were thinned and Detail Master carbon fibre decal applied. To recreate the debris screens within the sidepods, I used a.m.r.i. aluminum mesh screening. I scratchbuilt the screen edging and brackets from paper chrome foil and more of the floppy disk aluminum respectively. The exterior sidepod debris screens fasteners were fashioned by die-cutting SMS carbon Kevlar decal further detailed with SMS Philips screw heads. The ducting that leads from the alternator shielding to the left sidepod was scratchbuilt by wrapping fine craft wire around an appropriately sized diameter of tubing. Once enough wire was wrapped, the tubing was removed and the wire was slightly stretched to space out the rings, bare metal foil was wrapped around the wire and the venting carefully bent to shape. Once I was certain the venting was properly contoured after continuous test fitting, I applied a thick coat of Tester’s Dullcoat to fill the depressions and to preserve the shape. Finally, a coat of Alclad II chrome was applied to the venting for its final finish. The right side sidepod features a completely scratchbuilt coolant overflow/pressure regulator reservoir made entirely of aluminum, photoetch NBWs, and Sakatsu machined AN fittings. The fidelity of this fabricated part compared to the stock plastic part was entirely worth the endeavour, even though I built two complete units, I wasn’t quite satisfied with the first one! The straps are cut from Tamiya chrome foil.
Cooling System/Radiators
By far, the cooling system was the most difficult assembly that I encountered with this model, it also caused me more grief than I wanted, and that’s putting it very politely! Of course, none of the plastic parts were used except for the radiator shell and the basic “exchange housing” (used for cooling engine oil) that was heavily modified. The radiator features PPDK photoetch faces and top mounted brackets. After cutting off the plastic plumbing from the radiators, I drilled out the inlets to accept the new plumbing that was being used to replace the stock plastic parts. I unfortunately messed up the left side radiator beyond repair, so I sent a plea of help to GPMA Groups hoping someone would come to my rescue with any spare MP4/6 radiators. I didn’t think I would have much hope with this request, but luckily, a fellow builder came to my aid and provided me with the parts. Thank you very much – you saved my hide Andy! I created weld seams on the radiators and oil cooling exchange housing and all of the oil and coolant plumbing was replaced with silver solder tediously bent to shape and polished to a high shine. It took nearly half a roll of solder by the time I got each pipe bent and twisted to the exact shape required, and both the left and right side had to be symmetrical. I couldn’t even count how many times I test fitted these parts, this is where my patience worn thin! The brass photoetch hose clamps from the PPDK were used, first bent to their circular shape, painted with aluminum Metalizer, then clear Tamiya red and slid over pink electrical shrink tubing. Once this whole assembly was completed, I took one big sigh of relief and thanked God it was over! Again, I was very satisfied with the end result, because once this assembly was completed, there was no turning back to do any retrofitting.
Chassis Plate (Under Panel)
The chassis plate contained numerous ejection pin marks, so the first time-consuming task was to remove all of these imperfections. The underside diffuser fins were thinned to scale thickness and Modelers’ carbon fibre applied. All exposed upper and side surfaces were covered with carbon fibre and carbon Kevlar from both Modelers and Scale Motorsport and airbrushed with a protective semi-gloss coat of sealer. To simulate the heat shielding, I templated paper-backed bright foil and used a mixture of white glue and water for the adhesive, burnished the surfaces down tight, but again, purposely left imperfections as per the real car. In order to achieve a texture to the heat shielding, I uniformly pressed a rough sanding stick down over the cured foil. Photoetch exhaust exit surrounds from the PPDK were used both top and bottom and the chassis plate to engine supports were fabricated using fine wire and folded photoetch mounting brackets.
Wheels and Tires
On my 1/12 Ferrari 641/2, I finished the tires factory fresh with the manufacturers markings on the slick surface including the tire stickers, for the McLaren, I decided to go with a slightly worn look. I accomplished this by chucking the tires in my Dremel tool so that I could give the slick a scrubbed surface with 600 grit sand paper. The Goodyear and Eagle markings were airbrushed using a Yoshida Designs template. I purposely left the overspray and minor imperfections in the logos as per any real racing tire from this era. The remainder of the team markings were applied with a sharpened quill pen that I dipped into Floquil Reefer White paint. The yellow circular manufacturer markings on the sidewall were created by thinning the wall of aluminum tube and simply dipping into yellow paint and applying. In order to differentiate the sidewall sheen from the slick surface, I use anti-static PC monitor spray cleaner on the contact surface and the sidewall is coated with Pledge wood polish. Both substances are applied with lint-free electronics wipes.
The MP4/6 rims were treated with Model Master exhaust Metalizer followed by a generous coat of Metalizer Sealer. Again, white chalk was used to highlight the edges and tone down the finish. Scale Visions turned aluminum valve stems were used as well as photoetch balance weights from the PP brake detail kit.
Brakes
Originally, I had built up and installed the stock brake assembly and I must admit, it looked quite good…but, I discovered that Perfect Parts were releasing a 1/12 brake detail kit specifically for the 641/2 and MP4/6, so I promptly ordered this extraordinary detail kit to retrofit the stock brakes. Each brake assembly took approximately 4 hours just to assemble, it was time well spent though, because when you compare the Perfect Parts brakes to the stock units, the difference is night and day. The brake kit consists of machined aluminum rotors, hats and valve stems, machined brass spindles, photoetch plates, balance weights, fasteners and metal wheel nuts. After painting the rotors, they were chucked into my Dremel and lightly sanded to replicate a slightly worn appearance. The caliper equalization line was formed from brass rod and the bleed valves were replaced with miniature machined aluminum “grease fittings” from RB Motion. Brake pad retaining hardware was added as well as the heat sensitive paint that gave the mechanics an indication of the soaring temperatures that were endured by these highly efficient brakes. The brakes are fully plumbed utilizing scratchbuilt banjo fittings at the calipers. An overall light blackwash was applied to the calipers to add depth and wear. The brake cooling duct walls were thinned to scale thickness and completely covered with SMS carbon fibre. I created the jack stand from aluminum tube, styrene and rubber padding.
Front and Rear Wings
The front wing inner endplates and underside of the wings were covered with Modelers’ carbon fibre and the vortex generators were covered with Scale Motorsport’s latest carbon fibre that was recently introduced. The wing adjustment boltholes were drilled out, as were the boltholes on the trailing edge of the wing that the wickerbill would utilize when used. I fabricated the four support wires and brackets that go from the endplates to the vortex generator and back to the monocoque.
As with most scale Formula 1 rear wings, you basically need three hands to get it all together in one shot without getting glue all over the place, and despite the size of this wing, it did take a couple of tries to get this wing together ensuring the endplates were square and the horizontal wing elements were 90 degrees square from the endplates. Modelers’ carbon fibre was applied to the inner endplates, lower wing element, under side of the upper forward element and the uprights. Prior to painting, the lip on the trailing edge of the outer wing endplates were sanded off and replacement lips were fabricated from clear strips of acetate that was painted with Metalizer exhaust and then carbon fibered. SMS photoetch bolt heads represented the wing elements hardware. Finally, the rain light was wired and the zap strap was simulated by using electrical tape that was cut down into a thin strip. Bare Metal Foil was burnished down on the backside of the lense that was airbrushed with Tamiya Clear Red.
Cowling
The McLaren’s large cowling was meticulously cleaned up by removing all molding seams, ejection pin marks and by filling the seams for the head restraint bulkhead panel. I primarily used superglue as filler for this aforementioned seam so that no future shrinkage would occur as synonymous with most body filler. With the extraordinary detailing that was added to the monocoque and engine, I had to thin the underside of the main cowl and nose cowl to ensure the necessary clearance was maintained. Chevron supplied the vacuformed windscreen that was trimmed out to replace the stock out-of-scale windscreen. The attachment points of the new windscreen was drilled out and attached to the cowl with miniature pins utilizing MCG photoetch bolt heads. Various Sakatsu machined aluminum body fasteners were used in conjunction with MCG and SMS washers. Carbon fibre was applied to the forward section of the cowl as well as the dash area that resides below the windscreen. The underside was painted with Metalizer Exhaust and the relevant heat shielding applied. The final details added to the main cowl was the antenna trailing from the side-mounted camera and the addition of photoetch mirror faces.
Paint
Deciding on the correct paint for the MP4/6 was a challenge in itself. This has also been the topic of conversation between model builders. Every photo of any Marlboro McLaren will show that the paint is red, but due to the unique fact that fluorescent colours cannot be photographed accurately, it would be incorrect to paint the body chevrons red. I have never seen a Marlboro McLaren in person, (other than the M23) but I have seen many Penske Marlboro CHAMP Cars up close, and let me tell you, the fluorescent paint is so bright that it almost hurts to look at it. It’s hard to describe the actually colour, but it has a hint of pink to it. Luckily, I obtained a swatch of McLaren “red” vinyl from McLaren, so I had the real colour to match my paint up against.
I will start off by telling you that even accomplished model builders face trouble painting…I painted and stripped the cowl, wings and associated parts three complete times before I had success with the fourth kick of the cat! On the first round, I airbrushed Tamiya TS-26 Pure White and decided on a mix of Humbrol Gloss Fire Orange and Aurora Pink for the “McLaren red”. As it turns out, the Humbrol paint turned out to be a disaster. Into the paint stripper the parts went. The second time, I once again used TS-26 for the white and decided that Tru-Match #43 red neon matched the swatch perfectly. Shortly after painting this colour on, it decided to crack and peel to the point where the parts were once again put into the paint stripper. I was pulling my hair out. The third time I decided that I would use a three-part automotive urethane paint for the white. Why I strayed off the familiar path of TS-26 is beyond me, it was a mistake because shortly after spraying the white automotive paint, I knew it was going back into the stripper…I suspect that the hardener was too old, therefore the paint would not completely cure. With Tamiya Con 2003 approaching fast, time was not on my side to get this model completed. After reading about the quality of Finisher’s paint from Japan for the “McLaren red”, I had ordered the trio of MP4 red paint from Motoi at Hapico. This package includes a bottle each of Foundation white, MP4 red and a bottle of “clear fluorescent pink”. This paint is applied in the order of its description. The fourth and final paint job started with two coats of Tamiya white fine surface primer, three coats of Finisher’s Foundation white followed by three coats of Tamiya TS-26 pure white. The white paint was wet sanded up to 8000 grit polishing cloth between each subsequent coat.
I used Scotch 1/8 inch automotive plastic tape (#471) for masking the separation line in addition to Gunze Sangyo Liquid Masking Sol. Once the rest of the body was completed covered up with plastic, I airbrushed a mist coat of Metalizer Sealer to prevent any possible paint seepage under the colour separation mask. I then applied one coat of Foundation white subsequently followed by three coats of MP4 red and finally three coats of fluorescent clear pink. Don’t let the MP4 red catch you off guard though, it is quite red, but with each coat of the fluorescent clear pink, the colour shifts to the desired hue. In retrospect, I probably should have put on a fourth coat of the clear pink, but I was starting to get concerned about the ridge that was being built up against the masking. So far so good, the Finishers paint laid down extremely flat and cured quite rapidly and hard. Before the masking was removed, I sanded the “red” paint from atop of the separation masking tape to ensure that the paint would not tear and to provide a clean razor-sharp separation between the white and “red”. I held my breath as I slowly removed the masking hoping that there was no seepage beneath the separation mask. Low and behold, it worked remarkably well, but…I did have quite a paint step between the two colours. No problem though, that can be worked on later – the paint was finally completed and my main goal of not having to clearcoat the whole body was realized. I highly recommend Finishers paint for its outstanding qualities. After several days of trying to forget about the cowl, it was time to take care of the separation line and fully polish the body up to 12000 grit. After many hours of careful wet sanding, the paint step had virtually vanished and all of the parts were prepared for their respective decals.
I used the stock Tamiya decals in addition to Studio 27 decals for the Marlboros and chevrons. Once the decals were applied, the painted surfaces were treated to a thorough polishing with Novus #2 and ultimately Tamiya wax.
Conclusion
There are two main principles that I follow when it comes to building models. The first one is that absolutely every part must be airbrushed, no matter the size. This ensures that the paint is thin and evenly applied. The second rule was passed on to me several years ago at a model show that each subassembly should be assembled to museum quality, and when these subassemblies are put together, the result is spectacular…although, I go one step further, I ensure each part is worthy on it’s own merit. With this mindset, I can go about creating highly detailed and authentic racing replicas.
This model was built over the span of two years with an estimated time of at least 1800 hours devoted to replicating the MP4/6 and another 250 hours went into just researching my reference material to ensure that no detail was overlooked including over 600 photoetch nuts, bolts and washers that were used throughout! I decided to build Gerhard Berger’s car in celebration with his current success with Williams BMW and because Senna often overshadowed him during the 1991 season.
Two days prior to driving to Tamiya Con 2003 in southern California from British Columbia, Canada, my McLaren MP4/6 was completed. Mr. Tamiya awarded me for my efforts as this year’s Master Modeler and my MP4/6 and I were off to Japan…but that’s another story!