Contouring is the use of highlighting and shading to create the desired shape or form.

Highlighting is the application of a color which is lighter than the surrounding area. It makes the area appear larger, more prominent or emphasized. Highlighting works because it reflects light. It can be a matte finish (a flat finish), a shiny finish ( wet look like a lip gloss), a frosted finish (subtle slightly white), or a pearlized finished (multi coloured, quite shiny).

Shading is the application of a color which is darker than the surrounding area. Shading makes the area appear smaller, deep set or more sunken, also less emphasized. Shading works because it absorbs light. Shading is more effective if it is a flat finish (no gloss, no shine. A flat finish.).
Make-up is used to make people feel and look better. It should have a purpose, the look of the person. Make-up, by contouring, can balance out the body features as well as the facial features. All make-up you use is for a reason. Just because you purchase a new eye color is not a good reason. It will be impossible to contour foundation that matches your skin 100%.

With the proper make-up brushes and a cosmetic bag filled with fabulous make-up. Concealer and contours that will help to bring out your natural beauty. Applied correctly you will become absolutely beautiful.

I believe that brushes are the most important items to have. Good quality well bound long handled genuine hair brushes are the best. Good quality brushes will last the test of time. Just wash them once a month with a mild detergent and allow them to air dry.

Whenever I discuss make-up I am always pointing out the difference between warm and cool foundation. This photo has both cool and warm foundation on. Notice at the neck that I am a warm skin color. On the side that I am wearing cool colours, my face looks ashy and pale almost sickly. Take a piece of paper cover one half and do both sides to see what I see.

The most important choice is purchasing and/or applying the correct foundation. It could be the make or break to looking fabulous especially during daylight. It is fine to go one or two shades lighter for an evening or glamour look. Purchase a foundation with the same undertone as your skin. Department stores and drug stores are to blame for picking the wrong foundation. The lighting is atrocious. Fluorescent lights suck the natural colours from your skin. Have you ever gone home with make-up that looked different when you went home? It is the lighting.

There are some considerations to consider when choosing that right color. What is your background? Are you of Scottish or Irish descent? If that is the case you are more likely to be a cool color. Cool colours tend to have a blue under tone. Are you of a Mediterranean descent? This would make you a warm color. Warm colours have a yellow undertone. If you are of Asian descent you are most definitely a warm. If you are lady of color you must find a color that is exact to your natural tone. I am quite sure you have seen people of color having an grayish ashy color. It is due to a color that is to light for their skin tone.

In the days of digital cameras and advanced technology it is essential to be more diligent when choosing foundation. I am not immune to it myself. The season changes to summer and I have not purchased a new shade for the summer months. Regardless if you stay out of the sun or not, your skin color changes in sunny weather. Using the same color as you do for the middle of winter may not work for the summer months.

Concealer: Concealer is designed to help hide flaws. Using an 'Artist Brush' (that you can purchase from any art supply store)apply your Concealer to the eyelid area, below the corners of the eye next to the nose, around the bottom of the nose and under the lips. This will help to remove shadows. If you are using a beard cover apply it at this time. Color correctors other than beard neutralizer should not be used. I find that color correctors tend to add a caked appearance.

Foundation: To apply foundation use a sea sponge, wedge and an artist pallet. Pour a little foundation onto the pallet. Dip your sponge into water and then squeeze the excess out of the sponge. Dip the sponge into the foundation. Dab the sponge on your face from the top center to the bottom center. Using your wedge blend your make-up from the center of the face. This will bring the attention to the center of your face.

Powder: Apply the loose powder with the powder puff. With a powder brush, brush downwards to blend the powder evenly over your face. The downward motion is to mimic the direction of superficial hair growth. Pressed powder is for make-up maintenance through the day or evening. If you have oily skin use perm papers to dab excess oils instead of caking on the make-up.

Basic Eye Shadow Application: Choose three shades in the same color family - light, medium and a darker shade for contrast. Apply the lightest shade on the entire lid from brow to lash line. The medium shade is going to bring out the color of your eyes. Apply from lash line to just above the crease. The darkest color is going to be applied close to the lashes. Dampen the brush and then pick up a little color. Smudge it in around the lash base. If you have bags beneath your eyes, you might want to only line the top lashes.

Smoky Eye: The crease is very important to the smoky eye and it needs special attention. With a taupe colored shadow, or a mixture of grey and brown, using a small amount (to begin), and work it into the crease area. Continue until the area is well defined, with lots of attention to the blending process. Using the same color, sweep it around the corner and beneath the lashes to bring attention to this part of the eye. Taper off as you move closer to the inside corner of the eye.

Smudge your liner deeply into the lashes to the outer corners of top and bottom area. With your favourite mascara, coat lashes so that they play up the darkness of the eye area. Several coats might be necessary.

Cheeks: Dust a little dark powder along the cheek hollows. this can be just a darker shade of your shadow. Apply blush to the "apple" of your cheeks. Don't go too close to the nose. Apply a high lighter to the area above your cheekbones. Just a few dots will do and then blend well so that it isn't noticeable.

Lips: There are two ways to do your lips. The first is lip liner and lipstick or stain and lip liner. The first is the lip liner and lipstick. You first draw the outline of your lips and then fill in the rest of your lips with liner. After this procedure you follow it with an application of lipstick. Use a tissue to blot the excess and to set the lipstick. Then apply a final coat. The second choice is using a stain and lip liner which is my new favourite. You first stain your lips and then draw the line. If you do not follow this procedure the stain will not adhere to the lips.

"Every time you smile at someone, it is an action of love, a gift to that person, a beautiful thing." Mother Teresa

• To achieve the best shave use a dampened face cloth with very warm water and apply it to your beard plus the moustache area and let it rest for several minutes. This will help open your pores and also soften the hair shaft. Or what I find best is to use a personal facial sauna. The choice is yours. Apply your favorite shaving cream preferably a fragrance free. As the alcohol in those high scented creams will irritate your skin when having such a close shave. Using a great razor with a minimum of triple blades, such as Gillette Mark 3 pull the razor downwards with the hair growth until done. Note: Always use a fresh blade and don't shave the morning you plan on dressing up. Shave closer to the time you plan on getting dressed.



• If you have big bushy eyebrows, glue them down with spirit gum, latex or a glue stick. Squish the hair down with a painters brush in the direction of your hair growth. When dry cover with eyebrow wax. This only works for going out at night. Then use a primer designed to adhere cosmetics on the wax.



• Concealer is designed to help hide flaws. Using an 'Artist Brush' (that you can purchase from any art supply store) apply your Concealer to the eyelid area, below the corners of the eye next to the nose, around the bottom of the nose and under the lips. This will help to remove shadows. If you are using a beard cover apply it at this time. Color correctors other than beard neutralizer should not be used. I find that color correctors tend to add a caked appearance.



• To apply foundation use a sea sponge, wedge and an artist pallet. Pour a little foundation onto the pallet. Dip your sponge into water and then squeeze the excess out of the sponge. Dip the sponge into the foundation. Dab the sponge on your face from the top center to the bottom center. Using your wedge blend your make-up from the center of the face. This will bring the attention to the center of your face



• Apply the loose powder with the powder puff. With a powder brush, brush downwards to blend the powder evenly over your face. The downward motion is to mimic the direction of superficial hair growth. Pressed powder is for make-up maintenance through the day or evening. If you have oily skin use perm papers to dab excess oils instead of caking on the make-up.



• Curl your eyelashes by tilting your head slightly back and bring the lash curler in and curl and do this on both eyes.



• Apply your first coat of mascara allow to dry and then apply the second coat. For thicker lashes apply several coats without allowing the coats to dry.



• Using an angle brush and dark gray or dark brown Eye shadows make your new brow arch following the diagram used to show how to arch your brows.



• Apply your lightest Eye shadows on the entire lid area. Using your darkest Eye shadows make a corner V on each outer of eye. In this shape < >. Then using your accent color apply to the brow bone and blend well.



• At this point apply your eye pencil with a sharp point. make a series of small dots along the upper and lower eye. Use an angle brush to blend the dots together.



• There are two ways to do your lips. The first is lip liner and lipstick or stain and lip liner. The first is the lip liner and lipstick. You first draw the outline of your lips and then fill in the rest of your lips with liner. After this procedure you follow it with an application of lipstick. Use a tissue to blot the excess and to set the lipstick. Then apply a final coat. The second choice is using a stain and lip liner which is my new favorite. You first stain your lips and then draw the line. If you do not follow this procedure the stain will not adhere to the lips.