Turquoise Energy Ltd. Catalogue
1. Motor Kits
Electric Hubcap Motor Kit*: $499
Sorry, Electric Weel motor kits are not yet available.
*The required epoxy resin and supermagnets are not included in the
motor kit for shipping reasons. Supermagnets can be ordered on line
from a number of sources. Epoxy resin is commonly available.
Batteries are not included.
A "complete" kit (epoxy and supermagnets
not
included), and all the special parts individually, are available in
this catalog to make building them as simple as:
* epoxy the supermagnets onto the rotor
* wire up the coils (soldering recommended)
* assemble it.
The parts of the Electric Hubcap motor kit
(The black body parts shown, of sturdy polpropylene-epoxy, come
predrilled and painted with heat resistant polyurethane. Coils come
unwired.)
CAUTION: These motors are designed to run up to 2000 RPM. With the
maximum 42 volt supply, they can attain a dangerously high RPM with the
risk of violent failure. Until this is rectified by a future
microprocessor-based motor controller, 36 volts is the maximum
recommended supply voltage.
2. Electric Hubcap, Electric Weel Motor Parts
Please see the Electric
Hubcap Motor Building
Manual
for detailed motor description.
The Electric Hubcap Motor consists of the
following major
parts/assemblies:
1) Axle:
* A length of 1" diameter round shaft
* with common trailer wheel bearings, bearing spacer.
* SDS 1" taper lock shaft bushing (holds magnet
rotor, anchors bearings)
2) Stator:
* Two polypropylene epoxy body rings 11.25" diameter. (The bread of
the sandwich.)
* Bearing mount & "bearing cup" (outer bearing race)
* 9 electromagnets (coils), wired to heavy 3-pin plug
* three magnet position sensors wired to 5-pin trailer lights plug
(optional motor temperature sensor)
3) Flat Plate Rotor
disk with 12 supermagnets, 2" x 1" x .5" (epoxied on; polypropylene
strapping reinforcement)
4) Outer
case, mounting pieces and miscellaneous
Basic motor layout (minor changes are pending at this writing).
L to R: shaft, rotor compartment, stator compartment.
Stator Parts
Electric Hubcap Stator Coil mounting rings, upper & lower,
PP-epoxy - please enquire
(All motors) Stator Coils: prewound with 20 turns of #11 wire
(or per request), iron powder cores, coated with paramagnetic rutile
in sodium silicate - $10 each. Very low losses, 70¼C rated.
Three coils in series per phase gives 60 total turns for 36-42 volts
(nominal) operation.
(All motors) Magnet Sensor Assembly - please enquire
Three magnet sensors and temperature sensor on PCB, ready to bolt onto
the upper stator
ring and
plug into
the motor controller. $60
Rotor Parts
Undrilled Disk (magnet rotor disk) with Welded-On Bearing Hub (for
torque converter) -
$70 - availability TBA
(If you want an undrilled disk without a bearing hub, you have only to
visit your local auto supply store and ask for a '6129', or '1995 Ford
Escort rear brake disk' -- without paying shipping
costs, etc.)
Machined Center Bearing Race Hub - $35 - availability TBA
These are the short bearing hubs that get welded onto the rotor disks.
If you weld, it's cheaper. Shipping is
cheaper than the whole unit, too. On the other hand, you have to get it
aligned - not so simple.
3.
Turquoise
Brushless Motor Controllers - 5KW BLDC Motor Controllers for Electric
Hubcap, Electric Weel Motors
Sorry, the controllers and parts are not yet
available. A better design of controller based on IR2133 controller/MOS
gate driver chip is running well but PC boards to make more haven't yet
been ordered.
Please see Turquoise Motor Controller Building Manual
for
detailed descriptions
The controller consists of the following major parts/assemblies:
1) Motor Controller Plate. This
aluminum plate forms one
side of the chassis. It can be unscrewed for servicing or replacement
without disturbing the remainder of the chassis. It holds:
* The 2 inner and 2 outer
aluminum heatsink bars
* the heatsink fins (clamped under the outer
heatsink bars - aluminum roofing flashing)
* the 12 power mosfet transistors that drive the
motor coils, on the inner heatsink bars.
* The 'logic' circuit board (connects to operator
controls, magnet sensors, mosfets).
(It bolts onto three of the mosfets.)
* the heavy wiring terminal block
2) The Wiring Box/Chassis (the other five sides of the
box). In the box:
* Circuit Breaker - 40+ VDC, 150 Amps.
* 'Solenoid' (12 volt contactor relay) to turn
system on with car key (car systems)
* Cable clamps, glands
* Main Chassis Ground Bolt.
Motor Controller Aluminum Mounting Plate with Heatsink Bars
- $30
This is the mounting unit and heatsink base for the motor controller
itself, exclusive of the wiring box.
Motor Controller 'Logic' Circuit Board (populated) - $65
The circuit board is the low-power circuitry that connects to
everything and tells
the high power stuff what to do. Uses Allegro A3938 brushless 3-phase
motor
controller chip.
Aluminum Chassis Box 8" x 9.5" - $45
Larger size wiring box for where space isn't an issue. Does NOT include
motor controller mounting plate side.
Aluminum Chassis Box 6" x 9.5" - $45
Smaller size wiring box for tighter spaces (eg, in cars). Does NOT
include motor controller mounting plate side.
Custom sizes - please enquire.
Handy Battery Sticks
1. 26", 12 volt handy battery stick - $105. (12 volts, 10 AH,
30A, 70
CA - 10 NiMH D cells)
2. 14", 6 volt handy battery stick - $55. (6 volts, 10 AH, 30A
- 5 NiMH
D cells)
3. 7" x 5, Quintos Battery Stick - $120 (12V, 10 AH, 30A, 70 CA
- 5
short pipes of 2 NiMH D cells)
[images below]
Nickel-metal hydride batteries are exceptionally long life batteries.
After their rated 1000 charge-discharge cycles, they're simply down to
80% of their rated capacity. If lead-acid batteries were rated the same
way, they'd be rated for a only few tens of cycles at best. And they're
less than 1/2 the weight of lead-acid, and they're green - not
environmetally toxic waste even if dumped. Laptop computer users
report NiMH batteries also last longer than lithium ion types.
NiMH batteries made GM's EV-1 famous in the documentary movie "Who
Killed the Electric Car?", and it appeared the batteries would outlast
the cars. Since the cars and the batteries were all crushed, this was
never put to the
test.
After the cars were crushed, Chevron oil company via its proxy company
Cobasys stopped production just before they would likely have hit the
box stores to replace lead-acid, and has been permitted to acquire over
100 patents for
metal hydrides (see Cobasys on Wikipedia) to prevent anyone, anywhere
US "technology death by patent" is "honored", from manufacturing (or
importing) this excellent low-cost
battery chemistry in sizes much larger than "D" cells. Even the D cells
aren't available locally in stores here, tho AA cells are available in
D size packages at inflated prices.
As one result, everybody started developing lithium batteries, which
are intrinsically much more costly and only somewhat lighter in weight.
As another result, NiMH dry cells have become ever better, amazing for
their size, and the D cells, tho more costly than the Chevron-banned
big liquid filled cells would be, are maintenance free and are commonly
used in x100's quantity to make hybrid car batteries. They are still
substantially less costly than lithium cells. But they're tiny for
automotive, RV, boat, solar and other large battery needs.
So is there some practical way to build up big batteries up from small
dry cells? The hybrid car makers have done it one way for inside hybrid
batteries, but it's not mechanically solid for external use. Turquoise
Energy has the answer: Handy Battery Sticks! 1-1/4" lighter
wall PVC
irrigation pipes are filled with NiMH D cells to make 6 or 12 volt
batteries, and have 1/4" bolts on each end for connecting to the load,
or to more battery sticks to assemble large batteries for automotive,
solar/wind storage, or other uses.
12V & 6V Handy Battery Sticks
Quintos Battery Sticks - 12V in 5 pipes of two cells each for smaller
spaces.
With over 70 cranking amps to -10¼c, three banks of 12V sticks can
replace
lead acid car batteries and will probably last 15-25 years.
The 13.8 volts standard car
charging system voltage is (by chance)
exactly the ideal voltage for constant voltage NiMH charging
(of 10
cells in series, 12 V).
These six 6V sticks (configured as 3 banks of 12V)
have been in this
car since before the Quintos type was designed.
LED Lighting Products
Turquoise Energy (TE) integrated LED lighting fixtures and table lamps
are
conceived
on the principle that building a 120 VAC to low voltage DC power
supply into individual low-voltage, low power 'bulbs' is intrinsically
a poor
way to make LED lights. Instead, since they
use little power, a low voltage DC integrated lighting fixture of any
desired
brightness is conveniently plugged into a separate, commonly
available power adapter (included).
An integrated diffuser prevents the sharp
point-source glare so common in LED lighting. Altho LED emitters have
various colour designations, the light is also
conditioned by the diffuser. For example, a yellowish lamp shade will
make the light look yellowish. I generally describe the light simply as
"very
white". Even "cool white" LED emitters have a broader spectral
distribution than "cool white" fluorescent lights. I wasn't sure I
would like it, but I found it pleasant and
after a couple of weeks, I was used to it and didn't notice the colour
at all. (But stay tuned to
Turquoise Energy News
for future LED color lighting experiments!)
Here are seven commonly cited reasons LED lighting hasn't taken over
the market, none of which apply to Turquoise Energy LED lighting except
the
first:
1. It costs a lot. This is true, but it will pay for itself in as
little as a year in reduced costs, depending on electricity
rates and usage. At 10 cents per kilowatt hour, a 100 watt bulb uses
88$ of
electricity if left on full time for one year, exclusive of
replacement
bulbs cost. Electricity for a TE 12 watt LED light costs 12.50$, and
the
light should last 6-12 years of on time (50000-100000 hours),
saving around 450-900$ of electricity (and 25-100 lightbulbs) over its
lifetime. Where rates are higher, savings are greater. Savings over
fluorescent bulbs and tubes are also substantial.
2. Available LED 'bulbs' aren't bright enough for common lighting
needs. For brightness comparison, a typical 60 watt tungsten
(incandescent)
bulb is 800-900 lumens, and 100 W is 1500-1700. Most LED bulbs are 450
lumens or less. TE LED light
fixtures are available in brightnesses to replace up to about 150 watt
bulbs. The fixtures
will seem
somewhat brighter than the same lumens figure in a tungsten bulb
because they
shine
more in the desired direction (eg, downwards to horizontal rather
than up at the ceilng) rather than equally in all
directions, and because of the whiteness of the color.
3. LED lights normally gradually dim rather than fail, but some
become noticably dull dissapointingly
soon. This
is mostly from running them at too high a power and too hot.
The cooler LEDs run, the longer their life and retention of maximum
brightness, and at all times LED emitters run brightest when running
cool. TE lights' external power supply, efficient LEDs run at 1/3
of
full power, robust heatsinks
and ventilation holes, ensure cool running LED lights, which
stay brightest longest as well as using minimum energy.
Under these conditions, according to LED manufacturers projection
graphs, they're likely to be lit for 100,000
hours (over 11 years - if never turned off) or more before they're down
to 70% brightness. (Of
course, more emitters are required to attain the desired
brightness. This doesn't help the initial cost, but it reduces the
long term cost.)
4. It has also been said that the bulbs often prematurely fail
entirely. Evidently this is failure of the 120 VAC to DC power supply
rather than the
LED emitter(s). TE LED lights avoid this possibility by using external
power adapters. Even in the event of failure, these are widely
available at
low cost.
5. They are too "sharp" - intense or glaring. The tiny pinpoints of
bright
light
leave spots in front of the eyes. Turquoise Energy fixtures incorporate
good frosted diffusers to even
the light into a nice glow. (The "plastic jar" diffuser lamps should be
fitted with a good lampshade.)
6. The bulbs flicker, giving a strobe effect. This is the result of
insufficient or
missing filter capacitors, which is in turn because there isn't room
for a proper power supply inside a light bulb. Having modern switching
power adapters, or using
battery power, TE lights are completely steady.
7. Someone said they'd heard LED lighting gives off UV light. LED
makers say only UV LEDs emit any UV at all, but that the intense blue
point source light of blue and white emitters can be harmful to the
eyes. TE light fixture diffusers spread this light and render it
harmless. (Looking at a bare filament in a 100 watt clear tungsten bulb
is probably harmful too.)
1. LED ceiling or wall fixtures, with power
adapter
6" Globe Fixtures: approx. 6" diameter, 7" tall
Low Profile Mushroom Fixture: approx. 7.5" diameter, 4" height
Large Mushroom Fixture: approx. diameter 8", height 7"
LED Light Fixture Price Chart. Power adapter is included. All
fixtures are white frosted glass or plastic.
Watts and lumens figures are approximate and vary with temperature: the
lights start cold a little under power and brightness, increasing
approximately to near spec. in around 10 minutes. Lumens figures are
based on manufacturer's (Cree) or
dealer's (other types) data and general known LED emitter
characteristics. Watts are for given supply voltage
and are for the light only: they do not include power used
internally by the power adapter. (Add about 15%-20% for typical
regulated voltage power adapters a CSA/UL approved adapter is
included.) All fixtures have an internal fuse
(mostly to protect them against higher voltage supplies).
CAUTION: DO NOT TURN ON THE LIGHT WITHOUT THE DIFFUSER COVERING IT.
Eye damage can result from looking at the bare emitters because the
light is so intense. It's like looking at the sun. (Or as one person
put it, "They're like little welding arcs!")
Lumens/ Watts/ Emitter
|
6" Glass Globe $
|
6" Acrylic Globe $
|
6" Glass Mushroom $
|
7.5" Low Profile Glass Dome Mushroom $
|
8" Large Mushroom $
|
|
1. 700 / 6 / 2x Cree XM-L, T6 cool white (6v)
|
80
|
90
|
90
|
100
|
95
|
|
2. 900 / 10 / 2x 450 lumen, 12v automotive twist
socket bulbs
|
95
|
105
|
105
|
115
|
110
|
|
3. 1050 / 9 / 3x Cree XM-L, T6 cool white (9v)
|
90
|
100
|
100
|
110
|
105
|
|
4. 1100 / 14 / 2x generic emitter (12v)
|
90
|
100
|
100
|
110
|
105
|
|
5. 1400 / 12 / 4x Cree XM-L, T6 cool white (12v)
|
105
|
115
|
115
|
125
|
120
|
|
6. 1650 / 21 / 3x generic emitter (12v)
|
105
|
115
|
115
|
125
|
120
|
|
7. 1800 / 20 / 4x450 lumen, 12v
automotive twist socket bulbs
|
|
|
|
135
|
130
|
|
LED Light Fixture model number is: LEDLF[line number as shown][globe
type]
Globe types: GG6, AG6, GM6, GD7, GM8 - for Glass Globe 6", Acrylic
Globe 6", etc. per table
So, for the 1050 lumen, 9 volt unit in a 6" glass globe, model number
is: LEDLF3GG6
Quantity
|
1
|
2-3
|
4-7
|
8-15
|
16+
|
|
Discount
|
0%
|
5%
|
8%
|
10%
|
12%
|
|
BC Hydro Rebate
|
TBA
|
TBA
|
TBA
|
TBA
|
TBA
|
|
Prices are subject to change without notice.
This fixture is simply screwed to the ceiling, eg, near the old
fixture. It has a power adapter socket on the side. The power adapter
(included) can be plugged into the original fixture using a screw-in
receptacle,
in which case the original light switch is employed. Since the LED
emitters point down to horizontal and throw less light at the ceiling,
a 1400 lumen unit is at least
equvalent to a 100 watt incandescent bulb (1500-1700 lumens). Power is
about 12 watts for
the light itself, and the power adapter uses about 3 more, total 15
watts. (Can also be powered from 12 volt batteries, such as our
Handy Battery Sticks. ) For optimum
long-term performance, mount base up (ie, ceiling) to horizontal (ie,
wall).
Table Lamps
3" PVC "art deco" plumbing pipe table lamps are also available. With 6"
diffusers, add $10 to above prices (first three columns only). With
plastic jar diffuser, add $5 to first column. With plastic jar, a
lampshade (not included) must be used to further diffuse the
bright points of light. Glass diffusers can't be drilled for
ventilation or to hold a
lampshade, and will run hotter than the other lights. Optional with the
plastic globe.
Table lamps have a "bright-off-dim" switch near the bottom of the lamp.
100 Watt incandescent lamp (left) and 9 watt, LED 1000 lumen PVC pipe
lamp (right).
The aimed LED emitters throw more light forward and less back towards
the wall.
Notes on LED emitters
Efficiency: No emitter is 100% efficient -- all make some heat
along with their light, tho much less than other types of lights. (A
rough calculation says 100% efficiency might be around 140
lumens/watt.) The ones emitting over 100 lumens of light per watt thus
make
considerably less heat than those of 50 lumens per watt or less.
Choices of emitters bright enough for everyday lighting are so far
somewhat limited. The most efficient types tend to cost most, and the
electricity savings are great with any good type. Choose the most
efficient in particular if they're to be run off batteries or where
power is especially limited. Limiting heat production is of little or
no concern for building lighting -- unlike with any other type of
light. On the power grid, even 10 extra watts generally costs under a
dollar a month (eg, 60-90¢ @ 7-10 ¢/KWH) -- and that's if the light is
always on.
Rating: Those checking out specs will note that
the emitters used are rated for much higher power and lumens than these
lights are putting out. That's because the maximum rating and the best
use are two different things. The Cree XM-L emitters, for example, are
rated 10 watts, 1000 lumens and are being used at 3 watts, around 375
lumens. They are more efficient at lower power and they run cooler. If
used at full power the lifespan is much shorter. To attain 25000 to
50000 hours of life as well as highest efficiency, they are generally
used at around 1/3 of their rated current.
Please don't hesitate to write with comments or questions. Feedback is
important!
| Craig |
Carmichael |
| Craig |
@saers.com |