1. Motor Kits
Electric Hubcap Motor Kit*: $499
(Electric Weel motor kits are not yet available.)
*The required epoxy resin and supermagnets are not included in the
motor kit. Supermagnets can be ordered on line
from a number of sources. Epoxy resin is commonly available.
A "complete" kit (epoxy and supermagnets
included), and all the special parts individually, are available below
to make building them as simple as:
* epoxy the supermagnets onto the rotor
* wire up the coils (soldering recommended)
* assemble it (adjust shaft spacers).
The parts of the Electric Hubcap motor kit
(The black body parts shown, of sturdy polpropylene-epoxy, come
predrilled and painted with heat resistant polyurethane. Coils come
CAUTION: These motors are designed to run up to 2000 RPM. They can
attain a dangerously high RPM with the
risk of violent failure. Until this is rectified by a future
microprocessor-based motor controller, 36 volts is the maximum supply
voltage, and RPM should be carefully monitored.
2. Electric Hubcap, Electric Weel Motor Parts
Brief Specs/Description: 36 volts - 130 amps - 5 KW - axial flux
- 0-2000 RPM - shortest (circular) wire winding lengths - high
efficiency toroidal iron powder coil cores - BLDC with FeNdB ("NIB")
supermagnets - Large flux gap and reinforced magnet coatings prevent
magnet degredation over time - Pancake shape 11.5" x 4.5" - 30 pounds
This type of motor has several names
describing it electrically, each of which is applicable but not
necessarily complete or appropriate. First, it's a 3-phase
synchronous motor (traditional name) or permanent magnet synchronous
Of course, it is run from DC power via a motor controller
that switches the DC on the fly into three phase AC power,
"synchronized" only with itself. A permanent
magnet "DC" motor does the same mechanically via the brushes on its
commutator, so another way of looking at it is that it's a "DC" motor
with the controller replacing the brushes. It's best known today as a
brushless DC motor or "BLDC".
It's a simple design wherein there are no electrical
the moving rotor with its permanent magnets. Instead of
switch/brush connections in the motor, three magnet sensors (one per
phase spaced 120¼
apart [electrically]) tell the motor controller where the N and S
magnets are in their rotation, indicating which coils to activate
with which polarity. In the Electric Hubcap the coils are wound with
wire around super high efficiency iron powder cores. (The RPM and
switching frequencies are low enough that fine wire would be
Please see the Electric
Hubcap Motor Building
for more detailed motor & motor operation description.
The Electric Hubcap Motor consists of the
1) Case Parts:
The case consists of four parts molded from polypropylene-epoxy
composite. This tough, usually overlooked composite is stronger and
lighter than fibreglass-epoxy. (Hint: Polypropylene fabric is sold as
"landscaping fabric".) Metal parts would cause magnetic drag that would
* Stator outer plate
- molded polypropylene-epoxy ring, 11.25" diameter.
- 9 molded "buttons" hold the coils in place.
- Steel bearing holder "washers" mount to hold bearing
centered in 3" center hole.
* Center Plate & Rotor Outer Cover (molded together)
- 4" center hole for ventilation air, clearance
- ring 11.25" diameter with "buttons" to align coils.
(The two coil mounting plates are the "bread" of
the sandwich. The coils are the "filling")
- Magnet rotor side has channel where magnets sweep
around close to stator coils, but the rotor compartment is separated
from the stator compartment.
- Thick outer shell (11.5" O.D.), molded to the
center plate, protects people in the area in the event of magnets
breaking off the rotor. (usually from over-revving motor - possibly
from poor construction)
* Rotor End Cover
- Holds rotor end bearing assembly centered
- Ventilation air exit holes
2) Stator Parts:
* 9 electromagnet coils with low-loss toroidal iron powder
cores, wired to heavy 3-pin plug
* Magnet position sensor board wired to 5-pin trailer lights
* motor temperature sensor (AD590 or LM335, 10mV/¼K)
3) Moving Parts
* 1" diameter round
shaft (or custom shaft)
* with common 1" trailer wheel bearings, bearing spacers
* SDS or SD 1" taper lock shaft bushing with shaft key
rotor, spaces bearings)
* Flat Plate Rotor
disk, sintered zinc primed and polyurethane finished (similar to
'powder coating') for maximum corrosion resistance & magnet adhesion
* rotor has 12 supermagnets, 2" x 1" x .5" (epoxied on;
strapping magnet protection/reinforcement)
***** Case parts molds have recently been improved for
sturdiness and safety - new pictures coming soon. *****
Basic motor layout.
L to R: shaft, rotor compartment, stator compartment.
Stator Parts (Electric
Hubcap & Electric Weel motors)
(All motors) Stator Coils: prewound with 21 turns of #11
iron powder cores, coated with paramagnetic ilmenite
in sodium silicate - $10 each. Very low losses, 70¼C rated.
Three coils in series per phase gives 63 total turns for 36 volts
(All motors) Magnet & Temperature Sensor Assembly - $35
Three magnet sensors and temperature sensor on PCB, with plugs and
wires, complete & ready to bolt onto
the upper stator
the motor controller.
Rotor Parts (Electric Hubcap motor)
Magnet rotor disk zinc anti-corrosion primed, urethane finish -
SDS or SD Taper Lock Shaft Bushing to mount rotor on 1" shaft -
these are locally available most places for about $20. Other shaft
sizes are available in 1/16" increments to 2".)
1" HTSR #4140 machine shaft
3. Turquoise Brushless Motor Controllers - 5KW BLDC Motor Controllers
Hubcap, Electric Weel Motors
Controller plate without chassis
(Heat sink fins are visible behind)
Superior BLDC motor
controller based on IR2133 controller/MOS
gate driver chip. Specs in Brief:
- Complete unit ready to install with chassis, breaker, terminal
- Simple controls: minimally, speed control potentiometer and
- Hard-wired unit: no microcontroller
- 3 phase control, 6 pin header - motor sensors control, 10 pin header
- operator controls and readouts
- 60 V (components abs. max. limit) 42 V (nominal max) 36 V (typical)
- 150 A (limit for larger currents depends on durations, fuse &
breaker ratings) 130 A nominal
- Modulation: Current Ramp Modulation ("CRM"), a form of direct torque
- Cooling: high efficiency for low heat generation, aluminum fins,
aluminum chassis, passive. Made to absorb transient heavy loads without
rapid component heating
Please see Turquoise Motor Controller Building Manual
detailed description. Microcontroller overcontrol unit TBA.
The controller consists of the following major parts/assemblies:
1) Motor Controller Plate. This
aluminum plate forms one
side of the chassis. It can be unscrewed for servicing or replacement
without disturbing the remainder of the chassis. It holds:
* The 2 inner and 2 outer
aluminum heatsink bars
* the heatsink fins (clamped under the outer
heatsink bars - aluminum roofing flashing)
* the 12 power mosfet transistors that drive the
motor coils, on the inner heatsink bars.
* The 'logic' circuit board (connects to operator
controls, magnet sensors, mosfets).
(It bolts onto three of the mosfets.)
* the heavy wiring terminal blocks & fuses
2) The Wiring Box/Chassis (the other five sides of the
box). In the box:
* Circuit Breaker - 40+ VDC, 150 Amps.
* 'Solenoid' (12 volt contactor relay) to turn
system on with car key (car systems)
* Cable clamps, glands
Turquoise Motor Controller (includes chassis, et al), Assembled
and Tested - $450
Kit with all parts (you solder & assemble. Includes chassis,
et al) - $260
Motor Controller Aluminum Mounting Plate with Heatsink Bars
This is the mounting unit and heatsink base for the motor controller
itself, exclusive of the wiring box.
Motor Controller 'Logic' Circuit Board with parts (you solder) -
The circuit board is the low-power circuitry that connects to
everything and tells
the high power stuff what to do. With International Rectifier IR2133
5KW brushless 3-phase
Above plus 12 IR3260 MOSFETs (rated 60V 120A), 6 - 270uF/100V line
Aluminum Chassis Box 6" x 9.5" - $45
Larger size wiring box for where space isn't an issue. Does NOT include
motor controller mounting plate side.
Aluminum Chassis Box 4" x 9.5" - $45
Smaller size wiring box for tighter spaces (eg, in cars). Does NOT
include motor controller mounting plate side.
Custom sizes - please enquire.
NiMH Stackable 12 Volt Battery Cases &
Handy Battery Sticks
1. NiMH Stackable 12 Volt D Cell Battery cases - $25 (requires
2. 26", 12 volt handy battery stick - $90. (12 volts, 10 AH,
CA - 10 NiMH D cells)
3. 14", 6 volt handy battery stick - $45. (6 volts, 10 AH, 30A
- 5 NiMH
4. 7" x 5, Quintos Battery Stick - $95 (12V, 10 AH, 30A, 70 CA
short pipes of 2 NiMH D cells) - While quantities last.
Nickel-metal hydride batteries are exceptionally long life batteries
capable of handling high currents in both directions.
After their rated 1000 charge-discharge cycles, they're simply down to
80% of their rated capacity. If lead-acid car batteries were rated the
way, they'd be rated for a only few tens of cycles at best. And they're
about 60% the weight of lead-acid, and they're green - not
environmetally toxic waste even if dumped. Laptop computer users
report NiMH batteries also last longer than lithium ion types.
NiMH batteries (flooded cells) made GM's EV-1 and other electric cars
famous in the documentary movie Who
Killed the Electric Car?. 15 years later, a Toyota RAV-4 EV (one of
a handful that wasn't crushed) was reported to be losing considerable
After the cars were crushed, Chevron oil company via its proxy company
Cobasys stopped production just before they would likely have hit the
box stores to replace lead-acid, and has been permitted to acquire over
100 patents for
metal hydrides (see Cobasys on Wikipedia) to prevent anyone, anywhere
US "technology death by patent" is "honored", from manufacturing (or
importing) this excellent low-cost
battery chemistry in sizes much larger than "D" cells. Even the D cells
aren't available locally in stores here, tho AA cells are available in
D size packages at inflated prices.
As one result, everybody started developing lithium batteries, which
are intrinsically much more costly and only somewhat lighter in weight.
As another result, NiMH dry cells have become ever better, amazing for
their size, and the D cells, tho much more costly than the
big liquid filled cells would be, are maintenance free and are commonly
used in x100's quantity to make hybrid car batteries. But they're tiny
automotive, RV, boat, solar and other large battery needs.
So is there some practical way to build up big batteries up from small
dry cells? The hybrid car makers have done it one way for inside hybrid
batteries, but it's not mechanically solid for external use. Turquoise
Energy has two answers: First, stackable 12 volt NiMH battery cases,
Handy Battery Sticks! 1-1/4" lighter
irrigation pipes are filled with NiMH D cells to make 6 or 12 volt
batteries, and ends are glued on. They have 1/4" bolts on each end for
connecting to the load,
or to more battery sticks to assemble large batteries for automotive,
solar/wind storage, or other uses.
Stackable cases type
Single NiMH 12V D cell cases - 25 $ each.
L: Newset version
R: First version (obsolete)
12V & 6V Handy Battery Sticks (10 D cells & 5 D cells): 85$,
45$ batteries included.
Empty tubes with ends: 10$, 8$. Second end needs to be glued or screwed
on after filling.
(Transition plumbing pipe glue or methylene chloride. Screw pilot holes
are not provided.)
Quintos Battery Sticks - 12V in 5 pipes of two cells each for smaller
spaces. ( 90 $ each while quantities last)
With over 70 cranking amps to -10¼c, three banks of 12V sticks can
lead acid car batteries and will probably last 15-25 years.
The 13.8 volts standard car
charging system voltage (about 13.8 to 13.95 volts) is (by chance)
ideal voltage for constant voltage NiMH float charging (of 10
cells in series, 12 V).
These six 6V sticks (configured as 3 parallel banks of 12V) have been
car for over two
years now and still working like new in spite of considerable abuse.
Now this would be made with a 3-stack of the new battery cases.
LED Lighting Products
Turquoise Energy (TE) integrated LED lighting fixtures and table lamps
on the principle that building a 120 VAC to low voltage DC power
supply into individual low-voltage, low power 'bulbs' is intrinsically
way to make LED lights. Instead, since they
use little power, a low voltage DC integrated lighting fixture of any
brightness is conveniently plugged into a separate, commonly
available power adapter (included).
An integrated diffuser prevents the sharp
point-source glare so common in LED lighting. Altho LED emitters have
various colour designations, the light is also
conditioned by the diffuser. For example, a yellowish lamp shade will
make the light look yellowish. I generally describe the light simply as
white". Even "cool white" LED emitters have a broader spectral
distribution than "cool white" fluorescent lights. I wasn't sure I
would like it, but I found it pleasant and
after a couple of weeks, I was used to it and didn't notice the colour
at all. (But stay tuned to
Turquoise Energy News
for future LED color lighting experiments!)
Here are seven commonly cited reasons LED lighting hasn't taken over
the market, none of which apply to Turquoise Energy LED lighting except
1. It costs a lot. This is true, but it will pay for itself in as
little as a year in reduced costs, depending on electricity
rates and usage. At 10 cents per kilowatt hour, a 100 watt bulb uses
electricity if left on full time for one year, exclusive of
bulbs cost. Electricity for a TE 12 watt LED light costs 12.50$, and
light should last 6-12 years of on time (50000-100000 hours),
saving around 450-900$ of electricity (and 25-100 lightbulbs) over its
lifetime. Where rates are higher, savings are greater. Savings over
fluorescent bulbs and tubes are also substantial.
2. Available LED 'bulbs' aren't bright enough for common lighting
needs. For brightness comparison, a typical 60 watt tungsten
bulb is 800-900 lumens, and 100 W is 1500-1700. Most LED bulbs are 450
lumens or less. TE LED light
fixtures are available in brightnesses to replace up to about 150 watt
bulbs. The fixtures
somewhat brighter than the same lumens figure in a tungsten bulb
more in the desired direction (eg, downwards to horizontal rather
than up at the ceilng) rather than equally in all
directions, and because of the whiteness of the color.
3. LED lights normally gradually dim rather than fail, but some
become noticably dull dissapointingly
is mostly from running them at too high a power and too hot.
The cooler LEDs run, the longer their life and retention of maximum
brightness, and at all times LED emitters run brightest when running
cool. TE lights' external power supply, efficient LEDs run at 1/3
full power, robust heatsinks
and ventilation holes, ensure cool running LED lights, which
stay brightest longest as well as using minimum energy.
Under these conditions, according to LED manufacturers projection
graphs, they're likely to be lit for 100,000
hours (over 11 years - if never turned off) or more before they're down
to 70% brightness. (Of
course, more emitters are required to attain the desired
brightness. This doesn't help the initial cost, but it reduces the
long term cost.)
4. It has also been said that the bulbs often prematurely fail
entirely. Evidently this is failure of the 120 VAC to DC power supply
rather than the
LED emitter(s). TE LED lights avoid this possibility by using external
power adapters. Even in the event of failure, these are widely
5. They are too "sharp" - intense or glaring. The tiny pinpoints of
leave spots in front of the eyes. Turquoise Energy fixtures incorporate
good frosted diffusers to even
the light into a nice glow. (The "plastic jar" diffuser lamps should be
fitted with a good lampshade.)
6. The bulbs flicker, giving a strobe effect. This is the result of
missing filter capacitors, which is in turn because there isn't room
for a proper power supply inside a light bulb. Having modern switching
power adapters, or using
battery power, TE lights are completely steady.
7. Someone said they'd heard LED lighting gives off UV light. LED
makers say only UV LEDs emit any UV at all, but that the intense blue
point source light of blue and white emitters can be harmful to the
eyes. TE light fixture diffusers spread this light and render it
harmless. (Looking at a bare filament in a 100 watt clear tungsten bulb
is probably harmful too.)
1. LED ceiling or wall fixtures, with power
6" Globe Fixtures: approx. 6" diameter, 7" tall
Low Profile Mushroom Fixture: approx. 7.5" diameter, 4" height
Large Mushroom Fixture: approx. diameter 8", height 7"
LED Light Fixture Price Chart. Power adapter is included. All
fixtures are white frosted glass or plastic.
Watts and lumens figures are approximate and vary with temperature: the
lights start cold a little under power and brightness, increasing
approximately to near spec. in around 10 minutes. Lumens figures are
based on manufacturer's (Cree) or
dealer's (other types) data and general known LED emitter
characteristics. Watts are for given supply voltage
and are for the light only: they do not include power used
internally by the power adapter. (Add about 15%-20% for typical
regulated voltage power adapters a CSA/UL approved adapter is
included.) All fixtures have an internal fuse
(mostly to protect them against higher voltage supplies).
CAUTION: DO NOT TURN ON THE LIGHT WITHOUT THE DIFFUSER COVERING IT.
Eye damage can result from looking at the bare emitters because the
light is so intense. It's like looking at the sun. (Or as one person
put it, "They're like little welding arcs!")
|Lumens/ Watts/ Emitter
|6" Glass Globe $
|6" Acrylic Globe $
|6" Glass Mushroom $
|7.5" Low Profile Glass Dome Mushroom $
|8" Large Mushroom $
|1. 700 / 6 / 2x Cree XM-L, T6 cool white (6v)
|2. 900 / 10 / 2x 450 lumen, 12v automotive twist
|3. 1050 / 9 / 3x Cree XM-L, T6 cool white (9v)
|4. 1100 / 14 / 2x generic emitter (12v)
|5. 1400 / 12 / 4x Cree XM-L, T6 cool white (12v)
|6. 1650 / 21 / 3x generic emitter (12v)
|7. 1800 / 20 / 4x450 lumen, 12v
automotive twist socket bulbs
LED Light Fixture model number is: LEDLF[line number as shown][globe
Globe types: GG6, AG6, GM6, GD7, GM8 - for Glass Globe 6", Acrylic
Globe 6", etc. per table
So, for the 1050 lumen, 9 volt unit in a 6" glass globe, model number
|BC Hydro Rebate
Prices are subject to change without notice.
This fixture is simply screwed to the ceiling, eg, near the old
fixture. It has a power adapter socket on the side. The power adapter
(included) can be plugged into the original fixture using a screw-in
in which case the original light switch is employed. Since the LED
emitters point down to horizontal and throw less light at the ceiling,
a 1400 lumen unit is at least
equvalent to a 100 watt incandescent bulb (1500-1700 lumens). Power is
about 12 watts for
the light itself, and the power adapter uses about 3 more, total 15
watts. (Can also be powered from 12 volt batteries, such as our
Handy Battery Sticks. ) For optimum
long-term performance, mount base up (ie, ceiling) to horizontal (ie,
3" PVC "art deco" plumbing pipe table lamps are also available. With 6"
diffusers, add $10 to above prices (first three columns only). With
plastic jar diffuser, add $5 to first column. With plastic jar, a
lampshade (not included) must be used to further diffuse the
bright points of light. Glass diffusers can't be drilled for
ventilation or to hold a
lampshade, and will run hotter than the other lights. Optional with the
Table lamps have a "bright-off-dim" switch near the bottom of the lamp.
100 Watt incandescent lamp (left) and 9 watt, LED 1000 lumen PVC pipe
The aimed LED emitters throw more light forward and less back towards
Notes on LED emitters
Efficiency: No emitter is 100% efficient -- all make some heat
along with their light, tho much less than other types of lights. (A
rough calculation says 100% efficiency might be around 140
lumens/watt.) The ones emitting over 100 lumens of light per watt thus
considerably less heat than those of 50 lumens per watt or less.
Choices of emitters bright enough for everyday lighting are so far
somewhat limited. The most efficient types tend to cost most, and the
electricity savings are great with any good type. Choose the most
efficient in particular if they're to be run off batteries or where
power is especially limited. Limiting heat production is of little or
no concern for building lighting -- unlike with any other type of
light. On the power grid, even 10 extra watts generally costs under a
dollar a month (eg, 60-90¢ @ 7-10 ¢/KWH) -- and that's if the light is
Rating: Those checking out specs will note that
the emitters used are rated for much higher power and lumens than these
lights are putting out. That's because the maximum rating and the best
use are two different things. The Cree XM-L emitters, for example, are
rated 10 watts, 1000 lumens and are being used at 3 watts, around 375
lumens. They are more efficient at lower power and they run cooler. If
used at full power the lifespan is much shorter. To attain 25000 to
50000 hours of life as well as highest efficiency, they are generally
used at around 1/3 of their rated current.
CAT Standard 12 Volt DC Sockets, Plugs, Wall
12 VDC CAT Standard house wiring parts (green)
(Peltier element 12 VDC fridge is plugged in.)
The need for a standard
for 12 volt DC wiring circuits being pressing, and no one else having
come out with any sort of standard aside from the dinosaur car
cigarette lighter type, I decided to define a standard that I thought
most people would adopt, myself, by basing it on the common,
practical and small size ATO/ATC automotive fuses. It is thus titled
the Connectors, AT or "CAT" standard.
The approach is threefold:
1. a set of specifications
2. a set of products - which are here offered for sale
3. an upload of the plastic parts designs for the products to
thingiverse.com so anyone with a 3D printer can make the
Here are the essential Specifications.
fair tolerance for dimensions except for the .025" blade
thickness. A thicker metal such as .030" will expand the sockets,
bending the grips so regular thinner blades fit loosely. Bent or
can also cause this problem. (It's not my fault!) Pretty much anything
else that fits okay
12 VDC solar PV breaker panel with narrow plate convenience outlet.
(Plugged in: 12 V LED light that lit the closet for the picture.)
Aluminum plate 10" x 2.5" (thick, flat & no paint) with CNC drilled
for 10 Blue Sea Systems or equivalent breakers: 25$.
Copper bus bar goes to bottom of one end (main 12V) breaker and top of
7 others: 25$.
2 breakers are for between solar PV panels and DC to DC converter or
Blade Center Spacing:
9.5mm (same as AT fuses).
The negative connector blade is in line, that is, the same as
fuse. The positive connector is crosswise to the AT fuse, that
facing the same way as a 120 VAC wall plug.
Blade Contact Dimensions: 5mm x 8mm x .63mm ~(.2" x .32" x
.025") (a bit
longer than AT fuse blades to account for plug & socket plastic
Blade Sockets: Pico .205
inch type blade sockets or any equivalent that works (the size AT fuses
plug into. I hope somebody makes or will make some that are less touchy
Voltage: 12 -1 to
+2.5 volts, or 11.0 to 14.5
volts -- the CAT spec is for unregulated 12 volts, essentially for
battery power supply. Battery chargers commonly output up to 14.4
volts. (A few chargers go even higher. Avoid those for wiring with CAT
plugs and sockets.) Any equipment having this plug should be made at
least to not self destruct if fed these voltages, up to 20% higher or
lower than 12.0 volts.
Here are the Products. Colors available
are: White, Red, Green, Yellow, Black. All ABS plastic items are
available in any of these colors.
* Click-lock sockets have a slot and protrusions
to match click-lock plugs. They will also accept regular plugs.
|Turquoise Energy CAT standard 12 volt DC Sockets, Plugs
and Related Items
|$ @ 3+
|$ @ 6+
|CAT Regular Socket (with Pico .205 crimp-on blade sockets and
|CAT Regular Plug (with solder-on blades and shell screw)
|CAT Click-Lock Socket (with Pico .205 crimp-on blade sockets
|CAT Click-Lock Plug (with solder-on blades and shell screw)**
|CAT Regular Socket, plastic shell halves only
|CAT Regular Plug, plastic shell halves only
|CAT Click-Lock Socket, plastic shell halves only*
|CAT Click-Lock Plug, plastic shell halves only**
|1110 Receptacle/Light switch Box Full Cover, Duplex
side-by-side CAT socket holder
|1110 Receptacle/Light switch Box "decor" inner square Cover,
Duplex up-down CAT socket holder
|Small panel cover, Duplex up-down CAT socket holder
|Narrow panel cover, Duplex up-down CAT socket holder
|CAT Car Cigarette Lighter adaper Socket
(Puts a CAT socket in your cigarette lighter socket)
** Click-lock plugs have a hood with a divider that helps shield and
isolate the plug blades. They only fit into click-lock sockets.
CAT Sockets - Both the Regular
and the Click-Lock Sockets can be used in-line on
a cord, or inserted into one of the various mounting plates. The
regular sockets connect only with regular plugs. The Click-Lock sockets
connect with regular or click-lock plugs. (Click-lock sockets will
stick out 8mm from the face of a wall plate.)
Click-lock plugs & sockets, connecting
batteries and chargers in electric car.
* bare plastic socket shell, two halves/parts
* sockets with Pico crimp-on
Regular and hooded Click-Lock plugs for the ends of wires. Regular
plugs will fit regular or click-lock sockets. Click-lock plugs fit only
CAT Wall and Panel Plates
* Small Panel Plate - up-down duplex outlet
* "Square Hole" Plate - up-down duplex outlet
* 1110 Outlet Box Full Cover Duplex
* Car cigarette lighter socket (TBA)
Here is the Repository URL, www.thingiverse.com
, where the plastic part designs for CAT plugs, sockets and accessories
can be downloaded for free for those who wish to make their own with a
Steel piece for folding .025" thick CAT pins to fit the plug shells.
Pico doesn't make the AT fuse size pins, only the sockets.
Please don't hesitate to write with
comments or questions. Feedback is
Victoria BC Canada