About the
Electric Hubcap Motor
and Vehicle Drive System
The Electric HubcapTM
is a 5 KW electric motor add-on accessory to change fossil fuel
vehicles
into highly efficient plug-in electric hybrids
that normally run on batteries, recharged by home electricity. The gas
engine is turned on and put in gear on longer trips when the
batteries have run down.
This small size and light weight electric motor has the
torque and power to drive a car using a small, low ratio planetary
gear with low friction nylon "planet" gears as a transmission.

An
earlier Prototype mounted on
wheel. - A
modern version of the motor.
The Electric HubcapTM
has important advantages over any other electric drive system.
First, the old I.C.E. drive system and mechanics are
unaffected. The vehicle can run on electricity, or on gasoline "as
usual", to fulfill all driving needs including long trips, with less
pollution, fossil fuel usage, and cost.
Second, because it is the most efficient electric
motor (~95% peak efficiency) with an efficient, lower RPM design, using
a low friction nylon planetary gear (bypassing the regular inefficient
transmission), it moves the car at
least
50% more efficiently. Thus the electricity goes
at least half again as far, minimizing the battery power required -
and the impact on the
electrical grid should people switch en masse.
Third, the frugally used batteries need only power a
typical
day's driving, eg 30-50 Km - a few kilowatt-hours - beyond which the
"regular"
gas engine is
used.
I hope to put in optional "battery charge while driving"
on gasoline, so on an extended highway trip one can alternate between
periods of gasoline and electric driving, which I hope will reduce
overall gasoline consumption somewhat, even beyond plug-in range.
Fourth, the system is very simple to produce and capable of wide
variation. It is about as easy to install as I can imagine is possible.
Car wiring changes: The Electric Hubcap system needs to be
enabled by the ignition key (on "Acc") to prevent theft and
accidental vehicle movement, and either the turn signals et al must
operate with the ignition key on "Acc".
These changes are easily made by inserting link tabs into the fuse
sockets, and will not affect normal gasoline
operation.
For those who rarely do extended highway travel, a
gasoline additive to prevent the gasoline in the tank, fuel line and
carburetor or injection system from "going stale" after six or more
months may be advisable.
History
The Electric HubcapTM idea started
out with discovery of the startling low-RPM power of the wave power
unit's PMG generator, which led to the idea "How about supermagnets
right on a car's wheels or axle, being
pushed and pulled by electromagnets similar to the generator's to turn
the wheel?" The monthly Turquoise Energy News progress reports
show the gradual evolution of the
products
from these hazy ideas lacking in vital aspects into real,
practical working products, with each vital need slowly being
recognized, its function defined, and then refined as to component
detail, generally through several improving designs.

Car pulling away driven
by prototype Electric HubcapTM
on October 20th 2008, proving the direct drive concept works.
However, even with later motors, torque proved insufficient for
practical driving,
so a planetary gear reduction triples the thrust.
System Components
Of course, more than just a motor is required. Other vital
drive components for this system include: the planetary gear, solid
state brushless motor controller, gas
pedal potentiometer, Fwd/Off/Rev switch, and of course batteries: 36 to
42 volts, a few kilowatt-hours. The three batteries in the picture are
together about 1 KW-hr of high energy Nickel-Metal hydride dry cells.
These components must also be installed. Two "arms"
attached to the brake drum housing or the axle reach around the wheel,
front and back, to hold the motor in place - the most difficult and
exacting installation chore and a custom fit for each car model.

The vital drive components
Related non-drive components include an electric
heater/windshield defogger, a brake vacuum assist pump,
and perhaps some status readouts with mileage, battery state, and so
on. A NiMH car battery under the hood works better and lasts much
longer than lead-acid. It can be charged from the main battery pack
with a DC-DC converter, or if it is of sufficient size, it can simply
be charged when the car is plugged in along with the main motor pack.
Or of course it will recharge when the car is running on gas.